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Poll: What shoe are you wearing on multipitch routes?

Original Post
Keith Boone · · Henderson, NV · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 492

I am currently own and wear several pair of lace up LA Sportiva Miura's that are well worn and have been resoled several times. Primarily over the years they have been worn as a gym and single pitch shoe. I about loose a toe nail every time I wear them on multipitch routes and am in the market for a shoe that is more comfortable. Since I like the model, I could always buy a bigger size, but wanted to take a poll of what's your go to shoe before I make a purchase.

steven sadler · · SLC, UT · Joined May 2010 · Points: 35

TC Pros. I'm assuming you are doing gear routes? The TC Pros work great for cracks and edging, as long as you're not doing thin finger cracks. I bought mine to fit slightly loose for comfort but due to how stiff they are I have no problem edging. I can also jam in them all day without me feet hurting. All in all it is a beautifully built shoe.

chills · · Boulder, Colorado · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 0

I wear Tc pros on anything

the most comfortable yet precise shoe I have ever worn
Not quite as much as Miuras but damn close and if comfort is a concern for long days and swollen feet you Can't beat the Tc pro

I'm pretty sure close to the same price may be ten dollars more

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115
Keithb00ne wrote: ...I could always buy a bigger size...
Having a quiver of shoes for different purposes is really the way to go; it is hard to have one single pair of shoes do everything, from good bouldering performance to multipitch comfort. Since the Miura is such a versatile shoe, it is a pretty common thing for people to have multiple pairs, in different sizes for different applications. I've got a moderately-snug pair that I use for 1-3 pitch trad routes where I want to be able to edge well, and then a much more comfortable pair (a full size larger) that is nice for long easy routes. Then there's the tight Testarossas for sport climbing, the gym slippers, and so on...
Eliot Augusto · · Lafayette, CO · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 60

I can wear Mythos all day without too much pain. I also haven't have much of an issue with edging like some people say they do. Plus they're great for cracks.

Taylor J · · Taos NM · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 390

bouldering: Anasazi mocs
sport: Anasazi mocs
trad: Anasazi mocs

GhaMby Eagan · · Heaven · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 385

Tenaya Masai.

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115
DoesNotCare wrote:Tenaya Masai.
I've actually got my eye on those as my next multipitch shoe. How are they?
Justin Tomlinson · · Monrovia, CA · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 270

Mythos

rock-fencer · · Columbia, SC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 265

women's miuras or katana lace sized at 1 size below my european shoe size...ie im a 42 and wear 41 or 41.5's in my climbing shoes

Lou Hibbard · · Eagan, MN · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 410

I use Mythos - I'm pretty sure they don't edge as well as Miura's but they are comfy.

Muscrat · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 3,625

Just look at who is doing the hardest trad and what he wears. Not that shoes will get you up 5.14, just saying.
I too have a quiver of shoes, Mythos, Miura's, Anasazi's, in various sizes for different applications. And all i carry whether overhanging sport, 15+ pitch trad, Alpine, are my TC pro's. I resole (one pair is on it's 4th soles) with C4, wears a little faster but i like how it smears a little better.
Just opinions, but that's what you asked for

Colonel Mustard · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Sep 2005 · Points: 1,241

I have two lace up Miuras, the velcro version of same, a pair of Mythos, and a pair of Evolv Evos. The differently sized/type Miuras satisfy all outdoor needs. I generally only boot up in Mythos at the gym, and the Evolvs are.... somewhere.

I'm considering the TC cult for my next shoe, but who knows.

MRock · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 10

Moccasyms. Smears great, jams like no other. Edges ok if you have strong footwork and legs. Otherwise, get a different shoe for those edgy routes. Anasazi vcs are on the way for that.

BBQ · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 554

TC Pros are the only way to go!

BBQ · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 554

TC Pros are the only way to go!

GhaMby Eagan · · Heaven · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 385

I can't handle tight shoes after breaking a toe last year and the Tenaya Masai fits very comfortably yet climbs thin face climbs and slabs amazingly well.

Christian Schrader · · Phoenix, AZ · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 75

Katana Lace ups are an amazing shoe. I've sent dime edge v7's outside and sandbagged crack climbs in the same pair. You cant go wrong with them.

GhaMby Eagan · · Heaven · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 385

Fyi: the tv pro and katana lace both use the same last.

Keith Boone · · Henderson, NV · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 492

Tc Pros seem to win this, but I about choked when I saw the price. I thought the Miuras were expensive.

andyedwards · · OR · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 205

Check out the Astroman. I like mine. Good for edging, crack, have stiff soles. Get your street shoe size if you're looking for decent comfort.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
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