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Poll: What shoe are you wearing on multipitch routes?
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Jul 11, 2014
Flakes of Wrath
Scarpa Force X or Scarpa Techno X Paul-B
Joined Mar 26, 2011
120 points
Jul 11, 2014
The one they call The Husky, Natasha Holliday, Esq...
Scarpa Force X. I used to use the Techno until Scarpa stopped making them. I've been meaning to check out the new Techno X. Dave Holliday
Joined Feb 3, 2003
1,131 points
Jul 11, 2014
Offwidth time
TC-Pro and my old Boreal Ballet with socks for really cold times. Luc
From Montreal, Quebec
Joined Nov 27, 2006
8,199 points
Jul 11, 2014
Scarpa Force... which I think is now the Scarpa Vapor? Zac.St.Jules
From New Hampshire
Joined Dec 20, 2013
656 points
Jul 11, 2014
Post crux jug-- aaaahhhhhhhh.  Fantastic route.  O...
Mythos for me.

But I agree that whatever is cheap and comfortable should really be the answer. I don't climb hard enough to worry about edging and shit like that.
Chris treggE
From Madison, WI
Joined May 25, 2007
9,265 points
Jul 14, 2014
Z.St.Jules wrote:
Scarpa Force... which I think is now the Scarpa Vapor?

The force and the vapor are not the same shoe, the old force looked similar to the Vapor, which both came out around the same time, the force has been updated to the Force X, which I hear is a comfy all day shoe.
From Heaven
Joined Oct 2, 2006
427 points
Jul 14, 2014
Flakes of Wrath
GhaMby wrote:
the force has been updated to the Force X, which I hear is a comfy all day shoe.

It is the most comfortable shoe I've ever worn. Could be stiffer, but I really really like it for chill long trad routes.
Joined Mar 26, 2011
120 points
Jul 15, 2014
Eastern Bloc slab.
I have to hop on the Mythos bandwaggon. They are incredibly comfy, the rubber is super sticky, and I still feel like I can climb hard with them. Jamming cracks is a breeze. Jfaub
From Ottawa, On
Joined Jun 15, 2014
811 points
Jul 15, 2014
My TC Pro's are my go to for multi-pitch. ClimbingPirate
Joined Jan 30, 2008
172 points
Jul 15, 2014
Lost in the Sun pitch 2
TC Pros!!!!!! Bought them last year and havent looked back. Travis Dustin
From Hollis, NH
Joined Jan 8, 2012
1,682 points
Jul 21, 2014
Me eating a cliff bar walking back from Frankenste...
I just got a pair of Mythos. They feel way comfortable than when wearing TC Pros. The TCs make my Achilles tendon swell.. painful. Just on slabby stuff.

Mythos are the only shoe I've ever broke in that felt better after the first day. I can remember rapping barefoot the first day I wore TC Pros.
Bill Kirby
From Baltimore Maryland
Joined Jul 21, 2012
163 points
Jul 21, 2014
For easy routes, it doesn't matter--something comfortable (sized on the large side) and cheap, and leather for the reduced stench. Mythos are probably the lowest performance and most comfortable option--I don't understand why people with normal-shaped feet are willing to spend so much money on such a low-performance shoe.

For hard routes, I use my largest Miuras (sized with room for the toes to be flat). I take them off or fold the heel down at belays if my feet are uncomfortable. Outdoorgearlab talks about Miura lace vs. velcro as if they are very different shoes. I can't tell a difference; mine are half a size apart, so maybe that camouflages subtle differences.

I would not recommend velcro Miuras for easy (= hand-sized) cracks--the lowest velcro strap and metal ring get chewed up too fast. The laced ones hold up as well as anything else.
Phil Esra
Joined Apr 14, 2010
287 points
Jul 21, 2014
Definitely TC Pros. Such a good shoe I haven't put my Testarossas on in about 2 months Sean S.
From Thornton, CO
Joined Dec 29, 2007
12 points
Jul 21, 2014
City of Rocks
TC Pros one-half size bigger than my Katanas. Now if I could only order 1/4 size bigger for my right foot... Hiro
From Colorado
Joined Apr 2, 2012
372 points
Jul 21, 2014
I was in Mythos for the last couple of years. They perform well when they're new and aggressively sized; but once they stretch out and the edge gets rounded off, they get sloppy. So I'm trying out a couple of new things. I've had TCPros for a couple of weeks, and like them so far, but it's still early days. Very different feel from the Mythos, so much stiffer. And I've picked up a pair of Anasazi Green to try out, but no data yet.

Sizing, I'm a 43.5 in several lines; 44 Anasazi; 43 TCPro. The first Mythos I got were 43, way too large; then 42.5, better but still too large once they stretched; then 42, and even these have gotten sloppy.
kevin neville
From Somerville, MA
Joined Jun 20, 2013
44 points
Jul 22, 2014
Joined Apr 23, 2009
22 points
Jul 22, 2014
I wear my lace up 5.10 Spire's any time I will be in them for a long time, or if I am doing a route that requires leaving your packs at the top, rapping or hiking down, and then climbing out as I can also walk/hike it them reasonably well. One more plus is I can tighten the laces if I need better performance. However, I have a relatively wide foot and a slight Morton's Toe (where my 2ed toe is longer than my big toe). NickMartel
From Tucson, Arizona
Joined Aug 30, 2011
1,457 points
Jul 22, 2014
Mythos 90% of the time. I still have my 5.10 spires too for easy stuff and I have a pair of Evolv's that have become an all day after getting a resole. The mythos I never have to take off and the evolv's only sometimes. If it's a "harder" route I use my muria's just take them off at the belay.

haha nothing like a nice resole to make a shoe an all day tradder while still keeping them somewhat technical.
Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Joined Feb 15, 2006
987 points
Jul 22, 2014
Scarpa Force X, very comfortable! Seems to perform well until around 5.11 or so. Mark Lewis
From Salt Lake City, Utah
Joined Mar 15, 2012
603 points
Jul 22, 2014

for anything thats really demanding precision edging, muira (a comfy size muira)
Joined Apr 25, 2013
22 points
Jul 22, 2014
tc pros John Douglass
From Seattle, WA
Joined Sep 12, 2010
62 points
Jul 22, 2014
astroman for easy towers
tc pros for everything else
Joined Jul 19, 2010
211 points
Jul 28, 2014
Mythos - can wear them all day and lace them up as tight or loose as I need to. As someone said, not "high performance" but great for moderate multi-pitch trad. Ernest W
From Camarillo, CA
Joined Aug 20, 2009
1 points
Sep 8, 2014
John Sherman
Bill Kirby wrote:
TC Pros. The TCs make my Achilles tendon swell.. painful. Just on slabby stuff.

Anyone having the same issue with the TC Pro's? Kirby, did they end up stretching/ fitting better?

Just bought a pair of TC's. I fit them in the store 'comfort' but filling the shoe. Next size up I could wiggle my toes/ crunch the end of the rand back onto my toe/ etc... Tried to get on Whitehorse with them (aka slab-fest) and my arches and achilles area (above heel) were killing me. Wanted a technical shoe I could go all day in....

Is this just the effect of buying a new shoe and getting on a multi-slab? Did I size wrong? Do the TC's stretch? Is above heel pain common in TC? Maybe they're just not the right shoe for the shape of my foot? Anyone in the know want to offer something up?
Tom Sherman
From Bristol, RI
Joined Feb 23, 2013
272 points
Sep 8, 2014
5.10 Anasazi Guides Jim Fox
From Westminster, CO
Joined Jun 16, 2014
41 points

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