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Poll: What shoe are you wearing on multipitch routes?
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By kerwinl
Jul 11, 2014
JCM wrote:
I've actually got my eye on those as my next multipitch shoe. How are they?
The Masai is the perfect blend of comfort and performance for technical climbing on long routes. They can smear, edge and jam with style. They are superlight as well, maybe 1/2 the weight of a pair of TC pros. Really impressed with the shoes!!

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By J D
Jul 11, 2014
Beautiful day at Way Rambo
Eliot Augusto wrote:
I can wear Mythos all day without too much pain. I also haven't have much of an issue with edging like some people say they do. Plus they're great for cracks.

+1 for Mythos. Love em.

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By Paul-B
Jul 11, 2014
Flakes of Wrath
Scarpa Force X or Scarpa Techno X

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By Dave Holliday
Jul 11, 2014
The one they call The Husky, Natasha Holliday, Esq., enjoying Dog Dayz at Scott Carpenter Pool.
Scarpa Force X. I used to use the Techno until Scarpa stopped making them. I've been meaning to check out the new Techno X.

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By Luc
Administrator
From Montreal
Jul 11, 2014
The El
TC-Pro and my old Boreal Ballet with socks for really cold times.

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By Z.St.Jules
From New Hampshire
Jul 11, 2014
Ice Cave
Scarpa Force... which I think is now the Scarpa Vapor?

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By Chris treggE
Administrator
From Madison, WI
Jul 11, 2014
This problem haunted my dreams for 6 years after failing to send in 2008.  Finally got throw a heel over the lip jug -- now I can sleep.  Photo Darin Limvere.
Mythos for me.

But I agree that whatever is cheap and comfortable should really be the answer. I don't climb hard enough to worry about edging and shit like that.

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By GhaMby
From Heaven
Jul 14, 2014
Z.St.Jules wrote:
Scarpa Force... which I think is now the Scarpa Vapor?



The force and the vapor are not the same shoe, the old force looked similar to the Vapor, which both came out around the same time, the force has been updated to the Force X, which I hear is a comfy all day shoe.

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By Paul-B
Jul 14, 2014
Flakes of Wrath
GhaMby wrote:
the force has been updated to the Force X, which I hear is a comfy all day shoe.


It is the most comfortable shoe I've ever worn. Could be stiffer, but I really really like it for chill long trad routes.

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By Cultivating Mass
Jul 15, 2014
Leading on the only "fair means" rack.
GhaMby wrote:
Have you tried the Ra? If so how does it compare with the masai?


Ras are quite a bit stiffer than the Masais. Ras are like a fusion of all the best features of the Anasazi velcros, pontas, and Miuras put together. Masais are like a pair of ultra-comfy old pinks that climb twice as hard and are more comfy.

I'm still not sold on Onyx, but I'm gonna try a resole with it and see how it goes. The rubber on the Tenayas has exceeded all expectations, I don't plan on purchasing any other brand for the foreseeable future as long as they don't fuck up the models I like. Tenayas rule.

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By Jfaub
From Ottawa, On
Jul 15, 2014
Eastern Bloc slab.
I have to hop on the Mythos bandwaggon. They are incredibly comfy, the rubber is super sticky, and I still feel like I can climb hard with them. Jamming cracks is a breeze.

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By MattG.
Jul 15, 2014
My TC Pro's are my go to for multi-pitch.

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By Travis Dustin
From Hollis, NH
Jul 15, 2014
Lost in the Sun pitch 2
TC Pros!!!!!! Bought them last year and havent looked back.

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By Bill Kirby
From Baltimore Maryland
Jul 21, 2014
Me eating a cliff bar walking back from Frankenstein Amphitheater
I just got a pair of Mythos. They feel way comfortable than when wearing TC Pros. The TCs make my Achilles tendon swell.. painful. Just on slabby stuff.

Mythos are the only shoe I've ever broke in that felt better after the first day. I can remember rapping barefoot the first day I wore TC Pros.

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By Phil Esra
Jul 21, 2014
For easy routes, it doesn't matter--something comfortable (sized on the large side) and cheap, and leather for the reduced stench. Mythos are probably the lowest performance and most comfortable option--I don't understand why people with normal-shaped feet are willing to spend so much money on such a low-performance shoe.

For hard routes, I use my largest Miuras (sized with room for the toes to be flat). I take them off or fold the heel down at belays if my feet are uncomfortable. Outdoorgearlab talks about Miura lace vs. velcro as if they are very different shoes. I can't tell a difference; mine are half a size apart, so maybe that camouflages subtle differences.

I would not recommend velcro Miuras for easy (= hand-sized) cracks--the lowest velcro strap and metal ring get chewed up too fast. The laced ones hold up as well as anything else.

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By Sean S.
From Thornton, CO
Jul 21, 2014
Definitely TC Pros. Such a good shoe I haven't put my Testarossas on in about 2 months

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By Hiro
From Boulder, CO
Jul 21, 2014
Ouray Ice Park <br />Pick o' the Vic?
TC Pros one-half size bigger than my Katanas. Now if I could only order 1/4 size bigger for my right foot...

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By kevin neville
From Somerville, MA
Jul 21, 2014
I was in Mythos for the last couple of years. They perform well when they're new and aggressively sized; but once they stretch out and the edge gets rounded off, they get sloppy. So I'm trying out a couple of new things. I've had TCPros for a couple of weeks, and like them so far, but it's still early days. Very different feel from the Mythos, so much stiffer. And I've picked up a pair of Anasazi Green to try out, but no data yet.

Sizing, I'm a 43.5 in several lines; 44 Anasazi; 43 TCPro. The first Mythos I got were 43, way too large; then 42.5, better but still too large once they stretched; then 42, and even these have gotten sloppy.

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By frankstoneline
Jul 22, 2014

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By NickMartel
From Tucson, Arizona
Jul 22, 2014
I wear my lace up 5.10 Spire's any time I will be in them for a long time, or if I am doing a route that requires leaving your packs at the top, rapping or hiking down, and then climbing out as I can also walk/hike it them reasonably well. One more plus is I can tighten the laces if I need better performance. However, I have a relatively wide foot and a slight Morton's Toe (where my 2ed toe is longer than my big toe).

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By Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Jul 22, 2014
Bocan
Mythos 90% of the time. I still have my 5.10 spires too for easy stuff and I have a pair of Evolv's that have become an all day after getting a resole. The mythos I never have to take off and the evolv's only sometimes. If it's a "harder" route I use my muria's just take them off at the belay.

haha nothing like a nice resole to make a shoe an all day tradder while still keeping them somewhat technical.

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By Mark Lewis
From Salt Lake City, Utah
Jul 22, 2014
Scarpa Force X, very comfortable! Seems to perform well until around 5.11 or so.

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By EQueezy
Jul 22, 2014
mythos.

for anything thats really demanding precision edging, muira (a comfy size muira)

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By John Douglass
From Seattle, WA
Jul 22, 2014
NRG
tc pros

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By knowbuddy
Jul 22, 2014
A
astroman for easy towers
tc pros for everything else

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