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 ADVANCED
Industrial Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Belly Up T 
Belly Up Variation T 
Blow Chow T 
Darker is Better T 
Fast Boat to China T 
Flight 67 to Stockholm S 
Forgotten Names S 
Heidi Hi T 
Industrial Disease aka Dead Moonies Don't Sell Flowers S,TR 
John Roskelly Show or Polyvinyl Chloride, The T 
Left-Hand Monkey Wrench T,TR 
Nipple Phyle T 
Noodle Factory T 
Politicians, Priests, and Body Bags T,S 
Salad Bar once known as "The John Roskelly Show" T,S,TR 
Scarlett's Pulse T 
Take Flight S 
Thunderbird aka Light Beer T 
Unknown 5.8 AKA Top Rope Face One T,TR 
What Would Jesus Bolt S 

Politicians, Priests, and Body Bags 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: R. Berk, D. Hart, 1992
Page Views: 1,713
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Aug 26, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (35)
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These are the original 5/16" bolts. They go left ...

Access Fund still owns Golden Cliffs property; soon to be transferred to Jefferson County MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Politicians starts on the left side of Industrial Buttress about 50 feet left of the painted 67. Climbing begins in a clean, right-facing dihedral with thin crack that takes a good TCU or two. Run up the corner to a ledge below a bolt protected face. This fires up to the anchor on fine basalt edge climbing at 5.10- that has been nicely protected. This is one of the better 5.10 face climbs on North Table Mountain, and one of the first-wave routes to go in here.

Protection 

Bring half a dozen draws, a few thin camming devices (TCUs work well), and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.


Photos of Politicians, Priests, and Body Bags Slideshow Add Photo
Industrial Buttress - PPBB, <em>et al</em>.
BETA PHOTO: Industrial Buttress - PPBB, et al.
Politicians Priests and Body Bags, Heidi Hi, and Fast Boat to China.
BETA PHOTO: Politicians Priests and Body Bags, Heidi Hi, and F...
Peter Dillon nearing the anchors.
Peter Dillon nearing the anchors.
Mike Keegan on PPBB.
Mike Keegan on PPBB.

Comments on Politicians, Priests, and Body Bags Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 1, 2008
By Anonymous Coward
Sep 10, 2001

Richard: This cold shut anchor is getting quite worn from repeated use. Let's start a fund to replace these cold shut anchors at Table. It is just a matter of time for one these to fail. As you know, Table is like an outdoor gym on any given Sat/Sun. Stuart Allan.
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Sep 10, 2001

Thanks for the heads up. A lot of anchors at North Table have been used for top rope purposes, and this largely responsible for the wear you saw. It is generally a good principle to TR only through your own gear. I'll put these on the docket for replacement and try to get to it ASAP. You do suggest an interesting idea. How about organizing a day for gear up-grades on NTM?
By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Mar 12, 2002

You have the option of climbing the finger on the left or the hand crack on the right for the first 25ft. The easiest protection is in the crack to the left. TCU's and/or wires will do the trick. The top 3 bolts on the face are a little old and have hangers that spin. The climbing is positive, so enjoy.
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Mar 12, 2002

New top anchor chains were installed on 3 March. The bolts do indeed need to be upgraded to 3/8 Rawl.
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Nov 4, 2003

IMHO, the best 10 at NTM. Thanks, Richard! This anchor has needed this for a while.
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Nov 4, 2003

So much abuse, so little time. Perhaps we can more of these fixed up this winter.
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Nov 4, 2003

"So much abuse, so little time. Perhaps we can [get] more of these fixed up this winter." (If this was a course, I'd flunk myself for lack of editorial oversight.) By the way, if there are more anchor systems in need of repair, please list them here. Winter is a good time to catch up on gear replacement or up-grading. Additionally, for new routes, we have been shifting over to the "Boulder anchor", where the bolts are vertically off-set and then equalized with chain. If there is a general preference (within our financial grasp), it might be nice to hear these opinions. Last year Fixe gave a substantial amount of anchors and hangers to Mark Rolofson, and that went to a good cause, but the rest of us largely fronted the costs ourselves. It would still be useful to to get this process organized and get some of the costs off-set.
By Michael Amato
Dec 5, 2004

A bomber #2 Camalot placed midway up the right crack protects the lower section quite well. You can place another TCU on the left if you're so inclined. Once you're on the ledge, you must decide whether you want to make the next move by coming in from the left, or by climbing straight up from below the overhang... we did it both ways. Good moves continue above. Great route.
By Anonymous Coward
Jan 2, 2006

The new bolted line to the right is a bit close, but the bolting doesn't interfere with PPBB. The new line is a bit contrived. It is interesting climbing and seems like solid 5.11 if you take some care to avoid easier ground.
By Jimn Seiler
From: North Platte, NE
Apr 15, 2007

This is the best route I have done at Table although I have only been there 4 times.
By Matt Richardson
Administrator
From: Longmont, CO
Nov 10, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I guess I am not fully understanding this route - is there a reason why the first bolt is a nice shiny 3/8" while the next three are expoxied buttonheads and the final is an old 1/4". And all of the last ones are currently spinning. I would say that this route is in desperate need of a retrofit. This is a worthwhile route and I for one would be willing to bring the bolts if someone has the drill...anyone?
By richard berk
From: Denver, CO
Nov 12, 2007

We hand drilled this 15 years ago (the 3/8" was added later). I would imagine those bolts are getting a little old.
By outdooreric
From: Lyons, CO
Feb 13, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I just finished replacing the older bolts on PP&BB. No more spinner buttonheads. When I get my camera back from the shop, I'll submit some pics of the old ones. All three were 5/16", the first two buttonheads actually weren't too bad, but the highest (a short wedge type) was spinning in the hole. -Eric Sorenson.
By Matt Richardson
Administrator
From: Longmont, CO
Apr 1, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Thanks, Eric! This is a nice route that was in much need of some rebolting. What an alarmist I am! Sounds like it was not quite as desperate as I made it out to be.