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BETA PHOTO: Polichinelle
Puppet on a string. This route goes straight through the middle of the big roof. Huge jugs and heel hooks make it easier to climb than it looks. Crux is clipping the chains really. If it's been raining a lot, the slab just before the roof can be wet. It's possible to bail from mid anchor.
Polichinelle is the name of a famous french marionette, who would lie to anyone that who would listen.
9 bolts to anchor. mid anchor available.