Polaris 5.10+
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10+ [details] |
| FA: | ? |
| Submitted By: | Tom T on Oct 24, 2007 |
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Squeeze chimney
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Description Climb a short squeeze chimney to a large sandy ledge. After about 20 feet of perfect wide hands in a clean corner it's time to get busy. Grunt, cuss, and struggle your way through a slightly overhanging offwidth and deposit yourself into a tight squeeze chimney. This chimney provides an excellent no-hands rest and protects with a hand crack that is just within reach. Follow the obvious crack to two solid drilled angles that had brand new [yellow] slings in March 2006.
Location From the approach trail, branch left towards scarface. Polaris is the prominent offwidth just right of Desert Shield.
Protection Camelots: 2-#1's, 2-#2's, 4-#3's, 4-#4's (old or new, they both fit in various places)and a couple random pieces for the start.
A 60m rope will barely get you to the ground with some very tame down-climbing. A stopper knot in the "belay" side would be prudent.
Polaris from the ground
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this is the route plaqe on top of lil tower.. verv...
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By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 31, 2011
| The OP meant to say it's located just LEFT of desert shield. Great route, the old book says unnamed, ? for grade and maybe 100'. I recommend a 70m rope to belay from the ground. Also, I thought it would be #2s to the OW but it would have been better to have #3 camalots instead. Take 1 - 2 new #4 camalots and a #5 if you suck at OWs like me (plus some other sizes as stated on the description).
This is a really good route that should get traffic. Someone might want to replace the slings on those drilled angles though. I would have but didn't bring extra webbing to the crag this time. |
By slim
Oct 31, 2011
rating: 5.10c
| i had always thought this was the unnamed 10, and had thought that polaris is a different route to the R of desert shield(?). in any case, this is a fun route that should get done more often.
as clayton mentions, a 70m is the way to go for this route. not sure a 60 would make it all the way to the ground. the downclimb from the ledge wouldn't be impossible, but wouldn't be fun either. |
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