Poker Face 5.10b
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Good page? (1 like)   |
| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a/b [details] |
| FA: | |
| Submitted By: | Colin Simon on Aug 31, 2009 |
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Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>>
The following areas are closed to all visitor use to protect peregrine falcon aeries from March 1 until August 1 of each year or until the young falcons of the current year have fledged: Fifi Buttress Immediately west of Leaning Tower. Closure includes all routes on Fifi Buttress.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description 17 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. Slab climbing the whole way on dime-sized edges with tiny crimps to help you balance. Well-protected slab training.
Location A few hundred feet east of the start of the Royal Arches route, in a small clearing. Roughly under the top of the 4th pitch of Royal Arches. Also check out Face Card (5.10c) just to the right.
Protection 17 draws, plus a couple for the anchor.
By Alexey
From: San Jose
Sep 2, 2009
| Are you sure about 17 bolts on 90 ft?- probably just seven? |
By TylerW
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 12, 2010
| when I did it mid summer, the fixed slings at the anchor were full of mud and debris - looks like this route doesn't get done very often... which is too bad because it is an awesome route. the top half alternates between manky bolt/good bolt but luckily there are so many it doesn't really matter. crux down low getting off a stance but then sustained at 5.9-10a most of the rest of the way. |
By Colin Simon
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 21, 2010
| Alexey, I'm pretty sure it's 17 bolts now, but I heard it used to be 7. Definitely not spicy anymore. |
By Sirius
From: Oakland, CA
Jan 20, 2012
| 17 bolts, that's confirmed as of this weekend. Looks like it was retro'd. First fifteen bolts are ridiculously close to one another - clipping while the last bolt is at your shoes. You can easily skip bolts.
Then the last two bolts to the anchor are a bit more run, still super safe, and probably more in keeping with how the line was first protected.
FA: Dan McDevitt et al. No idea on who added bolts, if bolts were truly added. |
By Osprey
From: ...
Mar 7, 2012
| FA: Dan McDevitt, Sue (Bonovich) McDevitt, 3/1986 |
By Christina Freschl
From: Berkeley, California
Feb 20, 2013
| The anchor has also been extended to around 130ft. One 70m rope will make it to the ground. |
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