17 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. Slab climbing the whole way on dime-sized edges with tiny crimps to help you balance. Well-protected slab training.
A few hundred feet east of the start of the Royal Arches route, in a small clearing. Roughly under the top of the 4th pitch of Royal Arches. Also check out Face Card (5.10c) just to the right.
17 draws, plus a couple for the anchor.
From: San Jose
Sep 2, 2009
Are you sure about 17 bolts on 90 ft?- probably just seven?
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 12, 2010
when I did it mid summer, the fixed slings at the anchor were full of mud and debris - looks like this route doesn't get done very often... which is too bad because it is an awesome route. the top half alternates between manky bolt/good bolt but luckily there are so many it doesn't really matter. crux down low getting off a stance but then sustained at 5.9-10a most of the rest of the way.
|By Colin Simon|
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 21, 2010
Alexey, I'm pretty sure it's 17 bolts now, but I heard it used to be 7. Definitely not spicy anymore.
From: Oakland, CA
Jan 20, 2012
17 bolts, that's confirmed as of this weekend. Looks like it was retro'd. First fifteen bolts are ridiculously close to one another - clipping while the last bolt is at your shoes. You can easily skip bolts.
Then the last two bolts to the anchor are a bit more run, still super safe, and probably more in keeping with how the line was first protected.
FA: Dan McDevitt et al. No idea on who added bolts, if bolts were truly added.
Mar 7, 2012
FA: Dan McDevitt, Sue (Bonovich) McDevitt, 3/1986
|By Christina Freschl|
From: Berkeley, California
Feb 20, 2013
The anchor has also been extended to around 130ft. One 70m rope will make it to the ground.
|By Kaleem Khwaja|
From: Emeryville, California
May 29, 2013
I was wondering how the Reid guide could be so off about the route height; didn't realize the anchor had been extended. Luckily we brought the 70m, which just touched the ground with rope stretch.
From bolt 3 to 17 I don't think there's a single move that isn't 5.9-10a. What a great line!
I also highly recommend Aces and Eights (11b) next door, the crux lower half of which you can TR from Poker Face. Really nice bouldery crux at the first bolt.