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DescriptionThe cliff is extremely impressive for the Adirondacks. It lords over Interstate 87 between exits 32 and 33. There have been many close calls and near miss accidents as climbers strain to see the cliff and all it offers. Most of the routes on the cliff are in the moderate to hard range; that is don't expect the wonderful selection the Gunks offers, you have to earn the climbs here. However, if you feel comfortable at these grades then this is the place to be for big, long, and exposed pitches of high quality granite. Add to this the distance it takes to get there from major cities, this cliff has a quiet feel that is pure Adirondack climbing. Getting ThereTake 87 getting off at the Willsboro exit and head toward the cliff. Look to park at the DEC campground under the cliff. Park here and pay the $1 per climber/hiker fee. Follow the trail that begins off the back of the campground next to the large boulder. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face:
The Sting 5.8+ Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet
Gamesmanship 5.8+ Trad, 5 pitches, 500 feet
Cirrhosis 5.9+ Trad, 2 pitches, 150 feet
Bloody Mary 5.9+ Trad, 6 pitches, 500 feet
The Great Dihedral 5.9+ PG13 Trad, 3 pitches, 450 feet, Grade II
Scallion 5.10a PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet
The Fastest Gun 5.10b Trad, 4 pitches, 500 feet, Grade III
It Don't Come Easy 5.10b R Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet
Maestro 5.10c Trad, 1 pitch, 140 feet
Son of a Mother 5.10c Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet
Cosmopolitan Wall 5.10c PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 150 feet
Menace To Sobriety 5.10c Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet
Ragtime 5.10+ PG13 Trad, 3 pitches, 225 feet
Casual Observer 5.11a Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 200 feet
La Spirale 5.11- PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 85 feet
Earthly Night 5.11b Sport, 3 pitches, 270 feet
Macho 5.11b R Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet
Southern Hospitality p1 5.11c Trad, 1 pitch, 140 feet
Pilgrim's Progress 5.11c/d Trad, 3 pitches, 230 feet, Grade II
Raptor's Sream 5.12c Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet
Featured Route For Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face
Earthly Night 5.11b NY : Adirondacks : ... : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face
One of the new-school lines at Poke-O, and a fine one at that. This fully bolted route is quintessential dihedral climbing bookended by some of the most rewarding slab/arete climbing on the cliff. Avoid this route on sunny, summer days, as the black rock and oven-like quality of the corner can melt shoe rubber and make you go blind!! Begin the route by climbing up a 10' blocky corner to the beginning of the first pitch. Climb the technical arete protected by 5 bolts to a set of chain anchors...[more] Browse More Classics in NY
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