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The cliff is extremely impressive for the Adirondacks. It lords over Interstate 87 between exits 32 and 33. There have been many close calls and near miss accidents as climbers strain to see the cliff and all it offers. Most of the routes on the cliff are in the moderate to hard range; that is don't expect the wonderful selection the Gunks offers, you have to earn the climbs here. However, if you feel comfortable at these grades then this is the place to be for big, long, and exposed pitches of high quality granite. Add to this the distance it takes to get there from major cities, this cliff has a quiet feel that is pure Adirondack climbing.
Take 87 getting off at the Willsboro exit and head toward the cliff. Look to park at the DEC campground under the cliff. Park here and pay the $1 per climber/hiker fee. Follow the trail that begins off the back of the campground next to the large boulder.
55 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face:
Sunburst Arete 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad, 2 pitches, 180'
Gamesmanship 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 5 pitches, 500'
The Sting 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Phase III 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Bloody Mary 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, 6 pitches, 500'
The Great Dihedral 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 Trad, 3 pitches, 450'
Cirrhosis 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Scallion 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Cooney-Norton 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 3 pitches, 320'
The Fastest Gun 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 4 pitches, 500'
Lost Chance aka The Natural 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Son of a Mother 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Cosmopolitan Wall 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Menace To Sobriety 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
C-Tips 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, 100'
Maestro 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Casual Observer 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 200'
Earthly Night 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport, 3 pitches, 270'
Southern Hospitality p1 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Pilgrim's Progress 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Trad, 3 pitches, 230'
Featured Route For Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face
7 year itch 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a NY : Adirondacks : ... : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face
North end of Snake Ledge, look for a 1/2 pillar. Climb the left side of the pillar to it's top, spicy topout on this. Gear to 2" on this section. The next 30' is bolted. From the top of the 1/2 pillar, climb up and left into a small finger crack with some spicy friction moves, to a larger crack(crux) to 1 more bolt at the top. Long anchor built just over the bank for Rap......[more] Browse More Classics in NY
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