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Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
7 year itch 
Air Male 
Arch Crack 
Bloody Mary 
Borderline 
Bushido (Pitch 1 only) 
Casual Observer 
Certified Raw 
Chik'n Garbonzo 
Cirrhosis 
Cooney-Norton 
Cosmopolitan Wall 
Earthly Night 
Fastest Gun, The 
Firing Line 
FM, The 
Gamesmanship 
Grapes of Wrath 
Great Dihedral, The 
Green Onion 
Group Therapy 
Hang 'Em High 
It Don't Come Easy 
Junior Varsity 
La Spirale 
Ladder 
Macho 
Maestro 
Mayflower 
Menace To Sobriety 
Morning Star 
P.T. Pillar 
Pandemonium 
Paralysis 
Phase III 
Pilgrim's Progress 
Pillar 
Psalm 32 
Psychosis 
Puppies on Edge 
Ragtime 
Raptor's Sream 
Rapture, The 
Salad Days 
Scallion 
Snake Slide 
Snatch, The 
Son of a Mother 
Son of Slime 
Southern Hospitality p1 
Static Cling 
Sting, The 
Sunburst Arete 

Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face 


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Location: 44.316, -73.9215 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 31,734
Administrators: Jim Lawyer, Chris Duca, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: gilp on Sep 9, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Poke-O-Moonshine Mountain
  • Access is limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting; so there are some closures. Checking with the Adirondack Climbers Coalition or the NYDEC can provide the closure status.
  • Seasonal Peregrine Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    The cliff is extremely impressive for the Adirondacks. It lords over Interstate 87 between exits 32 and 33. There have been many close calls and near miss accidents as climbers strain to see the cliff and all it offers. Most of the routes on the cliff are in the moderate to hard range; that is don't expect the wonderful selection the Gunks offers, you have to earn the climbs here. However, if you feel comfortable at these grades then this is the place to be for big, long, and exposed pitches of high quality granite. Add to this the distance it takes to get there from major cities, this cliff has a quiet feel that is pure Adirondack climbing.

    And that is just the rock, don't get me started about the ice. Check out Don Mellor's guidebook Adirondack Rock and Ice for route descriptions and look for Jeremy Haas and Jim Lawyer's new Adirondack Rock Climbing Guidebook due to hit the shelves soon.


    Getting There 

    Take 87 getting off at the Willsboro exit and head toward the cliff. Look to park at the DEC campground under the cliff. Park here and pay the $1 per climber/hiker fee. Follow the trail that begins off the back of the campground next to the large boulder.


    53 Total Routes


    ['4 Stars',16],['3 Stars',25],['2 Stars',12],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
    ['<=5.6',3],['5.7',3],['5.8',7],['5.9',7],['5.10',18],['5.11',11],['5.12',3],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

    The Classics

    Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face:
    Sunburst Arete   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 180'   
    The Sting   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
    Gamesmanship   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 5 pitches, 500'   
    Cirrhosis   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 150'   
    The Great Dihedral   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a PG13     Trad, 3 pitches, 450'   
    Phase III   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
    Bloody Mary   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a     Trad, 6 pitches, 500'   
    Scallion   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
    Son of Slime   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a PG13     Trad, 2 pitches   
    The Fastest Gun   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 4 pitches, 500'   
    Cooney-Norton   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 3 pitches, 320'   
    Maestro   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 140'   
    Menace To Sobriety   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
    Son of a Mother   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
    Cosmopolitan Wall   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
    Casual Observer   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 200'   
    Macho   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c R     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
    Earthly Night   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Sport, 3 pitches, 270'   
    Southern Hospitality p1   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 140'   
    Pilgrim's Progress   5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII E4 6a     Trad, 3 pitches, 230'   
    Browse More Classics in Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face

    Featured Route For Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face
    The good clean fun of Gamesmanship, P. 1

    Gamesmanship 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c  NY : Adirondacks : ... : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face
    Gamesmanship is one of Poke-O's oldest and finest routes. Begin the route in the right hand of two handcracks behind a nice, large birch tree. Pitch 1: Technically, the route's crux is the first 15 feet of climbing and consists of insecure (read: slippery) jams in a fist-size crack. Once past this section, expect endless jamming in an impeccable crack to a bolted anchor. (5.8+ / 140 feet)Pitch 2:Continue up the left-facing corner above and belay at the dike on a comfortable ledge. (5.7 / 120 f...[more]   Browse More Classics in NY

    Comments on Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Jim Lawyer
    Administrator
    Aug 5, 2010

    Freedom Flight -- there's a large crop of poison ivy about halfway across the traverse. There are no cracks above or below the patch, so it's impossible to keep the ropes out of it. Good luck!

    By burlap submariner
    May 22, 2011

    Can u still camp @ the DEC campground @ the base?

    By Greg Kuchyt
    May 24, 2011

    Burlap,

    See the following two threads with info about camping...

    www.mountainproject.com/v/poke-o-moonshine-camping/106855201
    www.mountainproject.com/v/2011-adirondack-peregrine-closures>>>

    By burlap submariner
    May 24, 2011

    Thanks for the links greg, very helpful.

    By Mike McLean
    Jul 13, 2012

    As far as parking goes, I was there this week and found no self-payment box, probably because it's all closed down. People were parked right on the street next to the campground entrance, so I did the same without being ticketed.

    By Jim Lawyer
    Administrator
    Jul 14, 2012

    We've been driving right into the old campground and parking anywhere. That way you can park in the shade.

    The self-payment box was only relevant when the campground was in operation and climbers were using the facilities (toilet and water). With the campground closed, this is no longer an issue.