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Pearly Gates
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Albatross T 
Angelic Curses T 
Celestial Groove T 
Cell Phone Posse T 
Cloud Nine T 
Dog Ate My Topo, The S 
Easy Pickins T 
Golden Delicious  T 
Heavens Sake T 
Last Rites T 
Leap of Faith T,S 
Loaves of Fun T 
Lost Souls T 
Meathooks of Mercy T 
Milky Way S 
No Room For Squares T 
Pearly Gates T 
Poison Balance T 
Purgatory T 
Scene is Clean, The S 
TOOL TIME S 
Veins of Glory S 

Poison Balance 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Pauline Hsieh
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 656
Submitted By: jonah on Jan 31, 2006

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Description 

Immediately to the left of Celestial Groove is this fun line. Start straight up the hand crack in the dihedral. At the horizontal break, follow the leftward arch. A bolt above the final good jam on the arch protects the crux, a very delicate smear and balance move. Doing the move on the dog feels like no big deal. For some reason, it's a whole different story on redpoint; it's very hard to make your foot stick on the high smear. I guess that accounts for the guidebook rating discrepancies. From there, it's one more bolt and an easy crack to the top.

Protection 

Single set of cams, a couple draws and a handful of nuts.


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