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Pearly Gates
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Angelic Curses 
Celestial Groove 
Cell Phone Posse 
Cloud Nine 
Dog Ate My Topo, The 
Easy Pickins 
Heavens Sake 
Last Rites 
Leap of Faith 
Loaves of Fun 
Milky Way 
No Room For Squares 
Pearly Gates 
Poison Balance 
Scene is Clean, The 
Veins of Glory 

Poison Balance 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Pauline Hsieh
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 575
Submitted By: jonah on Jan 31, 2006
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Immediately to the left of Celestial Groove is this fun line. Start straight up the hand crack in the dihedral. At the horizontal break, follow the leftward arch. A bolt above the final good jam on the arch protects the crux, a very delicate smear and balance move. Doing the move on the dog feels like no big deal. For some reason, it's a whole different story on redpoint; it's very hard to make your foot stick on the high smear. I guess that accounts for the guidebook rating discrepancies. From there, it's one more bolt and an easy crack to the top.


Single set of cams, a couple draws and a handful of nuts.

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