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Poison Balance
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 2.5 from 8 votes
Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
FA: | Pauline Hsieh |
Page Views: | 2,359 total · 11/month |
Shared By: | jonah on Jan 31, 2006 |
Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Each year, the USFS monitors for raptor nesting.
A pair of golden eagles regularly nest on Bridge Creek Wall. When in effect, starting January 1, PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB or travel within 1/2 mile of Bridge Creek Wall. As a reference, the climb Condorphamine Addiction is just outside of this 1/2 mile buffer, and is OK to climb still. The closure extends through August 15, but there is active monitoring to determine if the seasonal closure can be lifted earlier.
In 2014, there was an active pair of peregrine falcons at Snow Creek Wall, but no official closure was put in effect due to the location of the falcons. The site will be continually monitored with changes or removal of closures updated as necessary.
A pair of golden eagles regularly nest on Bridge Creek Wall. When in effect, starting January 1, PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB or travel within 1/2 mile of Bridge Creek Wall. As a reference, the climb Condorphamine Addiction is just outside of this 1/2 mile buffer, and is OK to climb still. The closure extends through August 15, but there is active monitoring to determine if the seasonal closure can be lifted earlier.
In 2014, there was an active pair of peregrine falcons at Snow Creek Wall, but no official closure was put in effect due to the location of the falcons. The site will be continually monitored with changes or removal of closures updated as necessary.
Description
Immediately to the left of Celestial Groove is this fun line. Start straight up the hand crack in the dihedral. At the horizontal break, follow the leftward arch. A bolt above the final good jam on the arch protects the crux, a very delicate smear and balance move. Doing the move on the dog feels like no big deal. For some reason, it's a whole different story on redpoint; it's very hard to make your foot stick on the high smear. I guess that accounts for the guidebook rating discrepancies. From there, it's one more bolt and an easy crack to the top.
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