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 ADVANCED
f. Land of the Giants
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Chieftain T 
Crackpot T,S 
Point of No Return T 
Surprise T 
Voyage of the Damned T 

Point of No Return 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 160'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 536
Submitted By: Larry S on Jul 6, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: At the end of the LONG (~50 foot) traverse of the ...

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  • Description 

    This route follows the outside of the arch of the land of the giants wall. The first pitch is moderately runout on easy 5.4 terrain to a delicate 5.7 traverse (swing potential) ending at the belay in the corner under the roof. The second pitch continues to traverse left, following a finger crack on perfect clean quartzite, then heads abruptly up at 5.8+, or continues at 5.6 if you keep traversing.

    Pitch 1 - 5.7 PG13 - Begin almost as far right as possible on the Land of the Giants Wall, at the only spot the clean rock extends to the ground. Follow the path of least resistance up the rock to small ledge above a notch at about 60 feet (some loose rock, not much pro).. make a few moves to the right up a groove, then angle left up an easy slab, towards the arete of the arch. Get gear in a short diagonal finger crack. Either go around then up, or up then around the blunt arete to a slabby face with very little gear (I found a blue ballnut handy here). Continue to traverse across the delicate face (crux) for 15 feet to the left facing corner below the roof. Hanging belay on ample fingers sized gear.

    Pitch 2 - 5.8+/5.6 G - Follow the finger crack above the left side of the belay around the outside corner (exposed, wild), and continue to traverse for 25 feet to a right facing inside corner above a small alcove. (V1) Move awkwardly up the corner (crux, huge reach, 5.8++), then diagonal left and belay on gear or trees above the rappel tree on surprise.

    V1 - 5.6 G - Continue traversing for another 20 feet, following the same crack (very small gear) to a left facing inside corner (top of Cheiftan). Move up this corner for 15 feet to the top.

    Protection 

    Small gear very helpful. (0 tcu, blue and red ballnuts) Doubles in finger size gear for P2. Nothing larger than #3 Camalot. Offset nuts helpful, but not req'd.


    Photos of Point of No Return Slideshow Add Photo
    Route Lines for Point of No Return
    BETA PHOTO: Route Lines for Point of No Return
    Ryan at the P1 hanging belay at the end of the del...
    Ryan at the P1 hanging belay at the end of the del...
    Looking at PONR from the ledge on crackpot.
    Looking at PONR from the ledge on crackpot.

    Comments on Point of No Return Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Michael C
    From: New Jersey
    Jul 8, 2013

    awesome job scouting out this route!
    By Larry S
    Nov 2, 2014

    I climbed this again today, the bottom half of pitch one was very very loose, but after passing the ledge at 60 feet, the rock improves dramatically. Be careful on this one. I would also consider breaking P1 in half to keep the rope drag down.
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