Point of No Return 5.10c
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 30 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10c [details] |
| FA: | Tony Yaniro, Mike Waugh, and Randy Leavitt, January 1978 |
| Submitted By: | Roger Linfield on Sep 15, 2006 |
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Will well into the adventure.
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Description A clean, wide, committing offwidth (crux) leads to very well protected undercling exit moves.
Location This climb is near the southeast end of Little Hunk, on the north-facing side. It's a wide offwidth slot, capped by a roof.
Protection Six inch cams are nearly tipped out on the offwidth; bring larger cams or Big Bros. Small gear protects the undercling.
Robert Carrere trying all known methods to get pas...
| Point of No Return (5.10c), Joshua Tree NP
| Point of No Return (5.10c), Joshua Tree NP
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| Comments on Point of No Return |
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By Russ Walling From: www.FishProducts.com Apr 2, 2007 rating: 5.10c R
| Just did this thing today as a 25 anniversary ascent, plus or minus a year or two. At the bottom it is about 10 inches wide..... I had a BigBro going deep in the crack, but for the most part if you fall in the first 15 feet or so, you deck on to some very angular boulders at the base unless you have a very big cam or something out of the ordinary. It would not be pretty. After that a #5 Camalot will start to work and offer some protection until it becomes solid pro higher up in the crack. There is a fixed pin under the roof and the roof will take anything from a .75" TCU to a 2.5" friend. Interesting and cool moves get you out and past the roof. Anchor needs something like a 2.5" cam, a couble of small to medium wireds, and some slings. Really good route... just don't fall at the start, which is the crux by the way. |
By Will S From: Joshua Tree Apr 2, 2007 rating: 5.10c R
| This is a nice one. The wide section eases the higher you go as it gradually goes from 10" down to about 5" in the back up top. Take the biggest cam you have, an old style green #5 camalot doesn't really start working until about halfway up. Crux is definitely the first 15' of the route. Roof exit moves are very cool and not obvious, a nice little bonus after the grunt. |
By Robin From: Albuquerque, NM Mar 11, 2009
| Does anyone have any info on the utility of a (new style) #6 camalot here? |
By Russ Walling From: www.FishProducts.com Mar 12, 2009 rating: 5.10c R
| They will all fit at some point. It ain't going to help you much for the business section. |
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