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 ADVANCED
The Wasp Canyon
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bee Positive T 
Down the Rabbit Hole T 
Expensive Route, The T 
G Route, The S 
Point of Entry T,S 
Raven's Haven, The T 
Scorpion T,S 
Starlight T,S 
Stinger T 
Storm T 
W.A.S.P. (What About Some Pesticide?) T 
You are Here T 

Point of Entry 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Kevin McLaughlin, Steve Cheyney, 1997
Page Views: 1,312
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Aug 2, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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First route on the Starlight Buttress is The Point...
Road & nearby private property MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Better enjoy this, Point of Entry is the only easy way up the Wild Overhang Wall. A short way up Wasp Canyon the wall on the left side kicks out a huge overhang, and this is the Wild Overhang Wall. On the left side of the overhang, low in the canyon, and off fine flat boulder is a bolt protected and right traversing jug haul. This straightens out and heads for the roof above on bolts. At the roof, pro switches to Friends and Camalots, or even some bigger stoppers. Haul over the roof on more jugs, with a big run out to the anchor. Excellent climbing on a steep wall that only gets steeper as you tackle the routes on the right.


Protection 

QD and Camalots in the #1, #2, #3 range. A 60m rope gets you down from a double bolt anchor over the lip.



Photos of Point of Entry Slideshow Add Photo
Upper section of the Point. Climber  K. Stricker.
Upper section of the Point. Climber K. Stricker.
Blake on Point of Entry.
Blake on Point of Entry.
Comments on Point of Entry Add Comment
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By Chris Cavallaro
Apr 21, 2008

This is a good route, but really only one move of 5.10 at the first roof. Two bolts and small gear on the final headwall.