Point Dume 

I have recently overheard beginning lead climbers talk about going to Pt. Dume to practice lead climbing. Beginners and experts alike should be advised that the lead bolts on the main face are almost exclusively compression bolts. Compression bolts are considered sketchy (by the American Safe Climbing Association and others) when placed in Yosemite granite. Rusted compression bolts in a sea-side cliff are a death-wish.

Similar bolts have been pulled from nearby climbing sites with only slight pressure.

As far as climbing at Point Dume,

4 out of 5 stars for scenic value.
1 out of 5 stars for route quality.
0 out of 5 stars if you plan on leading anything.

If you are looking for a secluded day of climbing, don't go here. Having said that, it is worth a day of climbing if only to experience the view of the beach and the ocean spray hitting your face. The rock is very slippery early in the morning and on overcast days due to the coastal environment.

Why don't we get together and rebolt these routes. I will donate my time and some of the money for this operation... Who else is interested in doing this?

Heads up Point Dume climbers, my buddy in Pasadena just got some fresh metal thanks to Greg at ASCA and we plan to replace the lead bolts this weekend. We’ll post pictures.

Update: Unfortunately the potluck approach to bringing the necessary gear didn’t quite work out, the individual responsible for bring the grinder was unable to show and as a result we could not remove the rusty bolts. The plan to replace said lead bolts will have to be re-scheduled. Point Dume area climbers will be kept in the loop.

That is Great news...

Wow! A Point Dume fix-up is a dream come true. The only thing that could make this place better would be if Gigit came by and asked for a belay.

rebolting Dume will take some real hard work. it might help to consult the F.A party to help you get the real bolts replaced.

I had a great time running up these routes. But it would have been a lot more fun had I been leading. I ran up to the first bolt on the 5.7, looked at it long and hard, and backed down. I'd love to see this wall rebolted but I can understand if it doesn't happen - probably wouldn't be long 'til they were badly rusted again. :0(

There's a nice new bolted anchor on the lower ledge that does not require long slings for top-roping.

the drive on a holiday from downtown L.A. is particularly hateful. It took me three hours going on the 10 west and pch North. Maybe Kanan Dume Rd from 101 is better?

It is currently against the law to remove, replace or add bolts to the wall at Point Dume. The State Park is actively enforcing this law. Violators can be charged with a misdemeanor (CCR 4307a) and have their gear confiscated.

The State Park's District Environmental Coordinator would like to see an explicit ban on climbing at this site, so all climbers should be advised.

In particular, please stay on developed trails when walking to the top of the cliff. Observe all posted signs.

Someone has been chopping bolts and anchors in the last couple of days.
Not really sure why anyone would want to smash and chop the eyebolt anchors at the top of two routes. I climbed up the left most route only to find that the once bomber three point anchor is now down to one eyebolt.

Matthew - care to elaborate about the E.C.'s desire to ban climbing here?

I was thinking about heading to the rock, anyone have an update on whether or not the bolts have been chopped? Thanks

Went climbing here today and was pretty shocked at the stupid behavior. People need to cut out the crap like hand over handing their top rope to get to the top to clean or climbing down to the pre-summit unprotected before tying in to rap. Both times I've been here I've seen stupid stuff by barely mediocre climbers trying to impress the newbies they are taking for rides. It's an accident waiting to happen or at least a really bad precedent to set for beginners. It's also pretty bad to see people hang-dogging the worthless bolts. Treat the lead routes as solos, and if you can't climb that grade at full confidence... don't. I don't want to see someone get hurt or this place shut down. Sorry to rant, but anyone going to Point Dume, remember it's a crag, not a beach party.

Someone (very presumptuously) chopped all the lower bolts on the easy side recently. I once thought climbers were very reasonable and level-headed.

If you don't want to shell out $10 for parking, park where all the surfers do, on Grasswood, a bit north of Dume, and walk down. I actually like to take the bus from LA, line 545(?) which drops you off right near the top of the point, or sometimes, at PCH/Heathercliff.

Saw two almost-deaths on Tuesday at this crag. Some of the most stupid behavior I've ever seen in the vertical sports.

Also, we climbed one day, two days later we went back to do it again, and one of the anchor bolts we'd used two days prior was completely gone. I wouldn't trust any of this protection with my life, se sure to sling a rock or two on the top and set up your TR in a responsible way. My prediction is this crag gets shut down to climbing within a few years because of stupid antics.

I was there today. I saw one chopped anchor but it was an old one I think. At least one lower one one was hammered down. It needed to be. DO NOT lead on these unless you have a death wish. There is a rock you can sling on the right. This is a great place for scenery and to take inexperienced climbers, but limited obviously in numbers of routes and higher grade stuff. Head to Echo or Malibu Creek for that-not far from there. Take very long slings if you decide to go to Dume..

All lead bolts on the Pt. are rusted out and not to be used, by anyone.
ever. There are good anchor bolts on the summit for setting up top ropes. Sling the boulders for backup. Stay on the main trail when hiking up AND down from the top. That's the main trail. not the drainage. not the obvious use trails all over. environmental impact is the easiest way "they" could restrict access.

Point Dume is dangerous. Loose rock abounds.
I see climbers making so many mistakes, some days I just turn around and go home. The arete is not a good beginner's route. although easy for the grade, it has lots of friction moves and bad pendulum risk.
The lower half of the oceanside routes are death blocks waiting to fly. Be Aware.

With that said, Pt. Dume can be a great place to spend the day climbing. harder variations can be had on the ocean side along with some R/X rated bouldering for the hardman looking for a fix. Be cool, use your head, and minimize your presence whenever possible.

new bolts on the middle route beach side with rap ring

Pros:
1. Great scenery
2. If you get hot, jump in the Pacific
3. The rock is rough, but it's rock, and its in LA county...beggars can't be choosers.

Cons:
1. No disrespect to the Malibu climbers, but the crowd that was there that day was really unsafe. Maybe it's a west coast thing, but east coast climbers i.e. New and Red climbers - are very cautious climbers. I witnessed a lot of sketchy TR setups like 2 single Rap lines sharing one bolt - I know they're 3/8ths but I am of the mindset that you ALWAYS have a back up, no matter what.

2. Not that many climbs, it does get crowded, and people get protective of their climbs. People will post up on one climb and stay there.

3. Not a great place to sport, as I mentioned previously, some of the bolts are sketch. Some rusted, some loose, and some hammered flat. Just TR.

4. I saw some some solo climbing. Its one thing to watch Alex Honnold do it but guess what? You're not Alex Honnold...neither is your stupid friend. DON'T DO IT. It's unsafe and it is not smart.

Off topic but relevant - Point Dume hands down reminded me of why I moved to California. My girlfriend/climbing partner and I got there around 1pm. Crowded, but we expected that and being new to the area didn't see it as a bad thing. There we're two sport routes open on the ocean side so I went for the center most route. The climb was fun but I will admit I bailed before going to the last bolt because the one I was at looked a bit sketch - rusted and loose - BE ADVISED. Definitely not a climbing weenus here, just not an unnecessary risk taker. Came down, hiked around to the top and as I went to Rap down, two humpback whales came swimming up the coast line less than 20 feet offshore. SINGLE MOST AMAZING THING I HAVE EVER SEEN - RAPPELLING DOWN WHILE WATCHING TWO WHALES SWIM SIDE BY SIDE UP THE MALIBU COAST. WOW.

watch out for repellers. Came from AZ to visit friends and was shown this area. Started to lead and was told not to, but got my beginner girlfriend on the wall and guys would just come running down on top of her. Not the climbing etiquette i expected. But fun rock, fun easy approach and sketchy bolts yes, just don't fall. Just be ready to argue for an anchor against people that are just repelling at the top.