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Pogue's Cave Area
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Pogue's Arete 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Jeff Jackson, Todd ______ (from Dallas)
Page Views: 2,598
Submitted By: Jason Hundhausen on Apr 27, 2006

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Walt getting some Pogue's Arete action. October 20...

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Description 

Beginning upside-down inside the cave, Pogue's Arete climbs the ceiling for four bolts before turning the roof and continuing up on easier ground for another 15 feet. Monstro jugs make this bucket-haul more of a test of forearm endurance than power. Pulling the roof seems to be the crux, but being that you're out over the opening of the cave, the falls are super clean, so just go for it!

Location 

Climbs left to right across the underside of the cave then heads up the face for ~15 feet.

Protection 

5 bolts to a 2-bolt chained anchor with lowering hardware.


Photos of Pogue's Arete Slideshow Add Photo
The view from the back of the cave. April 2011.
The view from the back of the cave. April 2011.
Scott clipping the 3rd bolt on Pogues Arete.
Scott clipping the 3rd bolt on Pogues Arete.
Mr.P Photo By Jarred Cleerdin
Mr.P Photo By Jarred Cleerdin
Kyle on the bottom of Pogue's Arete.
Kyle on the bottom of Pogue's Arete.
Patrick on Pogue's Arete
Patrick on Pogue's Arete
Angus
Angus
Can you say "overhanging?" <em>Pogue's Arete</em> June 15, 2008.
Can you say "overhanging?" Pogue's Arete...
It's fantastically unique to climb something this steep but still keep it at a reasonable 5.11- grade. Allison makes the moves on the near-horizontal section before breaking out over the lip. (Photo: Bill Geist)
It's fantastically unique to climb something this ...
Here I am toproping Pogues Arete. Had a blast! Looking forward to leading this one next time we head back. July 2007.
Here I am toproping Pogues Arete. Had a blast! Loo...
The classic Pogue's silhouette. Photo credit: James Hunter, 3/29/14.
The classic Pogue's silhouette. Photo credit: Jame...

Comments on Pogue's Arete Add Comment
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By Allison Fritz
From: Los Alamos, New Mexico
Oct 21, 2007

Steep start but the holds are good. The crux for me was clipping the fourth and moving past the edge of the cave.
By Daniel Trugman
From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA
Jun 7, 2009
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

I really want to love this route because of the incredible moves and position... but the some of the holds through the roof are brutally sharp! Next time I do this, I'm taping up my hands ...and my heels.
By Robin
From: Albuquerque, NM
Mar 19, 2010

If you are into steep juggy stuff like me this one is a gem. Too bad it doesn't continue but hey it's great and unique. Spend a few moments looking at the moves pulling the lip of the roof. A good sequence can be spotted and will save you the trouble of worrying when you get there. If you make it to the roof, don't give up!!! Just a few more hard pulls and you're there!