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Creekside
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Double Trouble T 
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Tenshun T 
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Pogemahone 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Chris Barnes
Page Views: 858
Submitted By: Guy H. on Jun 14, 2008

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The pumpy crux section on Pogemahone...

Description 

This long route is a 3-star pump with great steep climbing on a patina covering face. It is only marred by a couple hard to clip bolts.

Start by scrambling up a short chimney to the left of the climb. It is the first climb on the exposed ledge on the left. The pumpy crux comes in the first 4 bolts through steep terrian. The crux is clipping the 4th bolt, since it was placed to the right of the best holds. The bolts above are well spaced, which will keep you on your toes.

You can lower with a 60M, but your belayer need to be on the upper ledge at the start of the climb. With a 70M you can lower to the ground.


Location 

This is the fourth route from the right edge of the west side of Creekside.


Protection 

8-10 bolts



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By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Aug 31, 2008
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

The crux is most definitely clipping the 4th or 5th bolt. Sloping holds and the bolt is way too far right. Great route though - steep and juggy at the bottom, thin and technical at the top.