Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Lost Angel
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.9 Crack T 
AAArete S 
Archangel S 
Autumn S 
Awakenings S 
Be Here Now T,S 
Boy's World T 
Caterer, The S 
China Doll T 
China Doll (P1-2, free) T,S 
Crazy Wisdom T,S 
Digital Dilemma (a.k.a. Johnny and Stella's route) S 
Disneyland S 
Divination S 
Divination Direct S 
Drop Zone S 
Dynamometer S 
Dyno ArÍte S 
Earth Voyage S 
Freedom S 
Fright Grooves T 
Host, The S 
Hunky Monkey S 
Interzone T 
Jungle Blues From Jupiter T 
Killing in the Name T 
Knowoneness T 
Life on Mars S 
Long Dong Dihedral T 
Long Dong with Zentropa Finish T,S 
Naked Lunch S 
Night Grooves S 
Podophobia S 
Primal Cinema S 
Rage Against The Machine T,S 
Raise the Titanic S 
Rock Odyssey S 
Rush S 
Shape Shifters T 
Shunyata T 
Signs of Life S 
Spiders From Mars T 
Standard Route S 
Strange Cargo S 
Take the Power Back T 
Technical Remote Viewing S 
Time Traveler T,TR 
Vaino Step, The S 
Variation to Hunky Monkey S 
Weenie Roast T 
Wide Crack T 
Zentropa T,S 

Podophobia 

YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Josh Wharton, Jacob Fuerst, and Madaleine Sorkin, 3/25/14
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 533
Submitted By: j wharton on Mar 25, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

Podophobia is a cool pitch if you like techy slab climbing. The grade is an early guesstimate. It might feel easier if you're a tech master, or harder if you've been hanging out at the gym too much.

Solo up a dirty 5.7 seam to a high first bolt just above the obvious ledge system that splits the wall, or climb a cleaner 5.9 slab with one bolt to the left. A few bolts lead up into the obvious roof feature. Undercling rightward on somewhat flaky rock, until it is possible to pull over the roof (this happens a bit farther right than you might think). Here things clean up. Follow techy slab climbing up and right, with a cool finishing sequence at the second to last bolt. Eventually gain the 2 bolt anchor shared with the Arch Angel extension.

Apologies for the schizophrenic bolting. This section of the wall had some random exploration bolts, and I felt it was better to leave what was there and add what was needed rather than drill more bolts just to make very minor adjustments. I'd recommend putting long slings on bolts 3 and 5 to help alleviate the issue, and also ignore the second two black bolts in the roof. (I'll try to remove these at some point.)

Enjoy!

Location 

It is the first route to the right of Arch Angel. You can toprope, or hang draws on the majority of the route from Arch Angel's anchor.

Protection 

12 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.


Comments on Podophobia Add Comment
Show which comments
By Scott Bennett
May 16, 2014

Sweet route! Cool variety of hard moves, some powerful pulls under and over the roof and some tech-9 slabbing up high... felt 2-3 letter grades harder than Archangel.
By reboot
From: Westminster, CO
Sep 28, 2014

Agree w/ Scott, really sweet moves, even though I didn't finish the entire route (decided to bail a few bolts above the roof w/ feet on fire). The face is still a bit dirty, w/ hard to find holds, making the climb a bit "exploratory" in nature. I probably don't have good slab technique anymore, but just the moves below/through the roof felt like a sandbagged 12+ in the Platte, let alone in Boulder Canyon.