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 ADVANCED
Whale's Tail
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Jason's Argonaut S 
Pockets a' Plenty S 
Rose, The S 

Pockets a' Plenty 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Mark Tjaden, Brian Shelton
Page Views: 1,698
Submitted By: Brian Collins on Jan 22, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (54)
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Dave at the crux. Got to trust the feet.

Description 

This line has an interesting combination of face climbing, pockets, and ledges. Climb up and past first bolt using the flare/flake. The move up and past 2nd and 3rd bolts can be direct using pockets and good footwork or by climbing on left side which is easier. Once you reach the first ledge, climb is straightforward to final ledge below two huge pockets under the anchor.

Location 

This is the rightmost climb of three at the Whale's Tail.

Protection 

8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.


Photos of Pockets a' Plenty Slideshow Add Photo
Panoramic view from the top of Pockets a' Plenty.
BETA PHOTO: Panoramic view from the top of Pockets a' Plenty.

Comments on Pockets a' Plenty Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 27, 2013
By drusch
Jan 23, 2008

Pockets a' Plenty is a great climb, but watch out for Poison Ivy at the belay station.
By Dave Franklyn
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jan 24, 2008

Watch out on the ledge at the top. There's a lone cactus defending the area.
By Old and Busted
From: Centennial, CO
Mar 1, 2008

Nice route, the crux pockets are fun. The cactus is positioned right where you make a blind reach, it got me. The 2 nostril pockets for your feet while you thread the anchor are an added bonus.
By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Jun 25, 2008

Cactus nearly got my buddy who TRed it, but somehow I missed it. Don't even remember it....musta been in the zone. I'd say the first two bolts are crux. Use the crack to your advantage by starting between a juniper tree and a patch of what we suspected was poison ivy mixed with scrub oak.
By Steve Knapp
From: Highlands Ranch, CO
Sep 17, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This route is the most fun of the three on the Whale's Tail. We weren't even sure what we were climbing until later. Crux is tricky and the finger pockets are fun. Long route! The two big holes below the anchors are interesting and make for a good stance while clipping the anchors. Oh yeah, poison ivy right on the route below and right of the first bolt.
By beehler
From: Lakewood, CO
Jul 30, 2009
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Terrible rock, it just turns to sand under foot and hand.
By Ben Burnett
From: Colorado
Oct 3, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Of 2 days at RRCOS this was probably our least favorite climb. It seemed contrived with some odd bolt placements. It has some bad rock too - I broke the hold that looked best to me above the sand ledge. The day we did it, it had tons of sand, leaf pieces, and pine needles on it. On the plus side, you can often climb left or right of the bolts and vary the route. Look out for poison ivy growing *on the rock* next to the starting corner and at the base.
By mountainmicah83
From: Colorado Springs
May 4, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Plain 'ol good 5.9 climbing all of the way up. If you belay from the left of the tree, beware that you will use up an entire 60m rope. Interesting start if you don't use the flake on the right of the tree to the first bolt. Climbing the last bolt and the anchors is pretty much free soloing (if you are leading), because if you slip, you will deck on the 4' wide shelf and your partner won't be able to stop you. Fun anyhow.
By Hans Hoffman
From: D'iberville, MS
Nov 8, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I thoroughly enjoyed the crux on this route. The name says it all. Definitely a must do route for The Whale's Tail.
By Michael Neuder
From: Colorado Springs, Co
Apr 17, 2011

Really nice climb. It's the leftmost line on The Whale's Tail. I'd say the first to bolts felt cruxy. Be careful up top, because there is a ledge and you have to climb up a couple feet to the next bolt.
By Ralph Kolva
From: Evergreen, CO
Feb 25, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Leftmost? I'd say rightmost, anyhow, the pics give you a good idea of the start of this climb. Not a bad climb, but a couple of the bolts could have been better place, or at least another bolt, to avoid hitting some ledges in case you messed up in the wrong place.
By teece303
From: Highlands Ranch, CO
Apr 27, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I like this route, but be solid at this grade, and understand RRCOS climbing.

I suppose this is technically a bit easier than Jason's Argonaut to the left, but it is a bit more sustained at the bottom; however, this is a more challenging lead than that route, head-wise and consequence wise.

It spit me off just before bolt three, and I came down to about bolt one. At the first ledge, I was a bit jittery from that fall, and as I set off into the pockets after the first ledge and I was trying to gett to that PG-13 runout to the bolt, my nerves almost spit me off. That would have probably been an ankle buster.

The second ledge also has ledge-fall potential, but it is less serious, and it uses all of a 60 meter rope, especially if you belay left of the tree.