Pocket Route 5.13a
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.13a [details] |
| FA: | Doug Reed (1992) |
| Submitted By: | Fred Gomez on Nov 27, 2011 |
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Description This striking line travels through perfect yellow and brown rock and has a little bit of everything on it. Slopey slab climbing leads to an aggressive dyno around a roof. After a good shake bust out of an undercling and choose your method to reach the base of the final roof. This section is thin and technical.
Shake out at the base of the roof, delaying the inevitable fall, and prepare to get mowed down by a typical NRG finish. Expect slopey hand holds, a lack of footholds, no chalk to mark the holds and a healthy amount of grime. Take the fall, curse the stone, and then rave about the cryptic movement once you figure it out. This really is one of the coolest finishes around.
This route was initially called "Black Rider." The current name is misleading. Don't expect a lot of pockets on this thing.
Location This route is just around the corner from "Bullet the New Sky." Look for a thin seam that travels up bright colored stone.
Protection 9 bolts + anchor
By Fred Gomez
From: Lewisburg, WV
Nov 27, 2011
| This is a great Endless Wall entry level 13a. Its solid 13a, but not nearly as sandbagged as the nearby alternatives. All the hand holds are skin friendly. |
By Blake Cash
Oct 21, 2012
rating: 5.13a
| Very doable for the grade.. Great rests, friendly holds, and just enough Endless oddity to make this route a great first for the area. I'd recommend sticking the 2nd bolt as there's a hard, balance-y move at the height of the run b/t the first and second and a fall would have you slamming into your belayer. |
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