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Fern Point - Party Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Autum Fire 
Back in the Saddle 
Biohazard 
Diversity in Microcosm 
Diversity in Microcosm Variation Finish 
Eat My Dust 
Exoduster 
Freaky Stylee 
Harbinger Scarab 
Manute Bol 
Modern Primitive 
Party All the Time 
Party in My Mind 
Party Till Your Blind 
Pocket Pussy 
Premarital Bliss 
S'more Energy 
Smooth Operator 
Stealth and Magic 
Stim-O-Stam 
Techman 

Pocket Pussy 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Rick Thompson, Eric Horst, 1989
Page Views: 662
Submitted By: Jeremy Steck on Nov 2, 2008
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Description 

Although this is a short route, all of the moves will keep you thinking! Start on the left edge of the wall climbing up using the arete to reach the first bolt. From here traverse right to reach a great pocket. Dyno up to reach another great hold and 3rd bolt. From here, use small holds and shallow pockets to eventually gain a thin flake and clip the 4th bolt. Continue straight up using a crimp or two to reach the obvious jug. Jugs from here out to reach the ledge and shuts.


Location 

This route is located on the gray wall immediately to the right of Diversity in Microcosm and just to the left of a tree and The Plug.


Protection 

4 bolts, shuts.



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By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
May 25, 2009

The start is a little inobvious (it looks like it might go direct without the arete to the left, but the moves are NOT 12a...), but once you gain the first bolt, the moves are engaging and surprisingly sustained. From the bottom, the route doesn't look steep, but you end up hanging on your hands quite a bit. Fabulous route, fabulous pockets.

Also, if anyone says this route is height dependent, they're wrong. My fiancee is 5'4" and she figured out a great sequence.