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Fern Point - Party Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Autum Fire T 
Back in the Saddle T 
Biohazard T 
Diversity in Microcosm T 
Diversity in Microcosm Variation Finish T 
Eat My Dust S 
Exoduster S 
Freaky Stylee S 
Harbinger Scarab S 
Manute Bol T 
Modern Primitive S 
Party All the Time T 
Party in My Mind T 
Party Till Your Blind T 
Pocket Pussy S 
Premarital Bliss T 
S'more Energy S 
Smooth Operator T 
Stealth and Magic S 
Stim-O-Stam S 
Techman S 

Pocket Pussy 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Rick Thompson, Eric Horst, 1989
Page Views: 721
Submitted By: Jeremy Steck on Nov 2, 2008

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Description 

Although this is a short route, all of the moves will keep you thinking! Start on the left edge of the wall climbing up using the arete to reach the first bolt. From here traverse right to reach a great pocket. Dyno up to reach another great hold and 3rd bolt. From here, use small holds and shallow pockets to eventually gain a thin flake and clip the 4th bolt. Continue straight up using a crimp or two to reach the obvious jug. Jugs from here out to reach the ledge and shuts.


Location 

This route is located on the gray wall immediately to the right of Diversity in Microcosm and just to the left of a tree and The Plug.


Protection 

4 bolts, shuts.



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By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
May 25, 2009

The start is a little inobvious (it looks like it might go direct without the arete to the left, but the moves are NOT 12a...), but once you gain the first bolt, the moves are engaging and surprisingly sustained. From the bottom, the route doesn't look steep, but you end up hanging on your hands quite a bit. Fabulous route, fabulous pockets.

Also, if anyone says this route is height dependent, they're wrong. My fiancee is 5'4" and she figured out a great sequence.