|(05) The Transition Zone
|Type: ||Sport, 30'|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c [details]|
|FA: ||Bernard Moret, Mark Ondrias, 6/23/1998|
|Season: ||fall/spring, early morning in summer|
|Page Views: ||479|
|Submitted By: ||Dave Wachter on Sep 22, 2008|
|Good Page?||0 people like this page. Your opinion: |
Leah Sandvoss onsighting "Pocket Princess" (5.11a/...
Low crux off the ground, with longish reaches to deep pockets (there are crappy pockets, too, which may help shorter people reposition to get the good ones). Footwork is key. Easier mid-section, then cruxy again above the last bolt. Stay just left of the bolt line up top, or else you'll get sucked into the crack way out right, and have a sharp and scary (though considerably easier) climbing experience. Don't know why they call this a "pocket route" - there are only about 3 pockets on it, but I guess that's more than average for Palomas.
Nicely positioned in a little nook among trees, so it's a good route to climb when it's hot.
5 well-placed bolts
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