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Louisville Swamp Boulder (S/W Twin Cities Metro, near Shakopee)
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Pocket of Pain (sit start variations) 

Hueco: V3-4 Font: 6A+

   
Type:  Boulder, 14'
Consensus:  Hueco: V3 Font: 6A [details]
FA: Arseny Pekurovsky? FA barefoot: Alex Oenes
Page Views: 1,169
Submitted By: Nathan Migdal on Jul 3, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: Each line shows general area (within one foot) of...

Description 

First things first: This description needed revising, so here goes. The V3 approach is sit starting off a small pocket (using any other holds within reach to assist) and climbing straight up, only to move right along a gritty shelf near the top to a solid finish. For a stronger burn, start off traversing right from the pocket then gradually upwards to end on the same topout holds as before (V4). This approach goes under the best crimps and uses only the right edge of the grit shelf for hands. An all-around straightforward problem worthy of a little hype, Pocket of Pain puts your contact strength to the test and reveals any flaws (don't I know it) in one's big reach climbing technique. Godspeed to you all.


Location 

East on the big rock. Look for a mouth-sized pocket close to the ground.


Protection 

crashpad and maybe some climbing tape in case the flappers come out to play.



Photos of Pocket of Pain (sit start variations) Slideshow Add Photo
A slightly more artistic perspective
A slightly more artistic perspective
Your one-and-only good sit start hold for this problem. Careful of the wasps that like to hang out in it from time to time.
Your one-and-only good sit start hold for this pro...
Comments on Pocket of Pain (sit start variations) Add Comment
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By Blake K
From: Carrboro, NC
Oct 20, 2009
rating: V3 6A

Definitely on my to-do list. I did the start last weekend with the uRock friends... hopefully we can get a warm enough weekend between now & next summer to finish it off

By mjwieland
Mar 17, 2012
rating: V4-5 6B+

Have touched these two route two days in 2012. I am new to Louisville, but this route should possibly move to V4-V5.

By Blake K
From: Carrboro, NC
Nov 19, 2012
rating: V3 6A

I did the sit-start direct finish yesterday afternoon. I think that finish deserves a solid v3 (maaaaybe v3+) rating, however I could see how in warm weather it could jump to v4.

I gave it 4 stars because I think it's the best start on the whole boulder.