|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch, 40'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]|
|FA:||Andy Brown, 1994|
|Submitted By:||Jeff Lockyer on Nov 8, 2001|
|Comments on Pocket Full of Cryptonite||Add Comment|
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By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 7, 2006
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Watch out for the clips on such small holds. They'd be easy enough to blow, though it was amazing how well the feet stick here.
My weakness is thin face, particularly on sloping or slanting holds. Being a lower-evolved creature, resembling in some ways a gorilla, this is not my specialty. Furthermore, 5.12s are usually pretty difficult for me regardless of their nature. Still, I was able to do this route without much issue, and not much more trouble than with the 5.11a to the left, "Little Toe Jam." This leads me to suspect that the grade of this climb may be over-estimated. Or, perhaps I was just having a great day and L.T.J. was under-graded.
Either way, a good climb with fun moves on solid holds... no matter how small or hard to find.
Oct 3, 2011
|This is a fun little climb! Climbs better than it looks...start felt breezy by popping my right hand into the small undercling just off the chunky start hold...just sayin'.|