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Below The Old New Place
Routes Sorted
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Adam Ant (aka Nuclear Ant Farm) S 
Color of My Potion S 
Fat Boys Don't Fly S 
Flesh-Eating Gnats S 
Got a Nightstick, Got a Gun, Got Time on My Hands S 
Greg Shredder T 
I Dogged Your Wife and She is a Doofus S 
Inflight Movie S 
Instant Dogma S 
L Dopa T 
Little Shop Of Horrors S 
Manic Crack (aka Left Twin Crack) T 
Manic Nirvana S 
Monsterpiece Theatre S 
Oscar de La Cholla T 
P.M.S. S 
Pathogenic Cysts S 
Polyester Terror T 
Putterman Cracks T 
Ralph's Dilemma T 
Ralph's Leisure Suit S 
Ralph's Revenge T 
Right Twin Crack (aka Lost Nerve) T 
Route 1 T 
Route 22 T 
Route 24 T 
Route 25 S 
Route 26 T 
Route 27 S 
Route 31 S 
Route 32 T 
Sardonic Smile S 
Scandanavian Airlines S 
Strong Urge to Fly S 
Wailing Banshees S 

P.M.S. 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Mike Schillaci, 9/89
Page Views: 595
Submitted By: George Perkins on Jun 22, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Description 

P.M.S. is a popular warmup at BONP, and is the easiest of the sport climbs at the crag.

Fun moves leaning off the arete with a crux section at the last bolt where it thins out.

If you can control your hormones, try it without using the arete; this is a really fun 5.11 with thin edges & pockets, and doesn't seem too contrived.

Be careful not to send the loose gravel on the ledge below the anchor down on your belayer.

Location 

The sharp-looking arete on a buttress right of the Wailing Banshees-Manic Crack-Lost Nerve face. Stops on a big ledge, which is an obvious landmark.

Protection 

4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor (out of sight on big ledge). At least 2 guidebooks say "only 3 bolts", but there are really 4 (the highest bolt is newer?).


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By Jason Hundhausen
From: Bozeman, MT
Jul 2, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I think the original route meant for you to climb on the face (11a), but the arete is also very fun! It was retrobolted from 3 to 4 bolts some time ago.
By Daniel Trugman
From: La Jolla, CA
Dec 14, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Nice, clean, and sustained climbing but still the easiest sport route at BTONP.

The face on the left (with the arete off) is a pretty fun 5.11-. Worth doing if you're looking for something here at that grade.
By Chris Archer
Dec 1, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Worn cold shuts at top; Watch out for loose rock on ledge when pulling rope or lowering.