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The Nappy Dugout
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PMS 
PMT 
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PMS 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Mike Pont, Tannis Richardson
Page Views: 2,162
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Aug 5, 2001
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BETA PHOTO: This shot shows both PMS and PMT next to each othe...

Description 

While not jaw-droppingly stunning from the ground, this is 5.10 limestone face climbing at its best, with consistently incut holds on consistently steep terrain. It's very popular as a morning route, so be ready to stand in line. Two adjacent routes (Ivory Tower and Lee Sheftel's new route [name?]) at similar grades and a nice elevated view of a pretty stretch of river make this a nice hang.

Both of these routes are up and right of the Nappy Dugout (or Shit Cave, as it was known before porta-potties were installed in the Canyon) and start from the top of the dirt cone. PMS is the middle route and starts on easy, ledgy rock to reach a high first bolt behind the tree.

Continue past the bolt into a faint corner which terminates in a steep face. Sustained climbing takes you to an aesthetic finish on hidden holds.


Protection 

10 quickdraws.



Photos of PMS Slideshow Add Photo
Climber: Megan Cerise.
BETA PHOTO: Climber: Megan Cerise.
Comments on PMS Add Comment
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By Anonymous Coward
Jul 8, 2003

This is an absolutely phenomenal route for the grade. Arguably, the best 10 at Rifle and not to be missed. During the summer, the sun hits the route by 1 or 2, so get there early.

By Adri.n Robert
From: boulder, co
Jun 5, 2006

I agree with that.. we got on at 3-4 in the roasting sun; the moves felt a lot harder than they needed to be, but hey I like loose slacklines for that same reason.

By trumpeterfrodo
Apr 20, 2007

Sick line!
Everything is there, but it is really pumpy. The only crux for this climb is clipping the bolts. I failed and took a 20 foot whipper! PMS is a MUST climb!

By Evan Winn
Aug 24, 2009
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

It climbs so smoothly and consistantly. Good technique is very rewarded as is liiking where you can't see chalk.