Plumb Line  5.11a

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet Consensus:  5.11a [details] FA:  Jamie McNeill, Alysia Catalfamo, Jay Harrison 8/3/09 New Route:  Yes Season:  May- September Submitted By:  Jay Harrison on Aug 28, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Jamie McNeill sends the FA, August 3rd, 2009.

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Description 

P1: Climb up left on small ramps to a stance on top of a tooth-shaped, 2' high flake (same start as Parallel Passage). Traverse R to the crack and then climb the crack directly up through the overhang to the top (100') or to fixed anchors at 80'.
V1: Plumb Line Direct 5.11c
Climb directly up the seam/thin crack from the Patio.
NOTE 4/27/2013: A large chunk of this climb fell down over the winter: a 20' tall, 5' wide, 4' thick block which comprised the right side of the overhang crux section of the route. Looks probable that, once the rock dust is swept off, I suspect this will make the route easier.

Location 

The Black Arches Wall is accessible by a 1/2 hour walk along a good herd path through the Boulderwoods and up along the side of the mountain, passing the Measles Wall and South Corner Cliffs along the way.

Start: This route begins on the "Patio", a ledge over a 30-40', scruffy slab, 50' R of Black Arch Arête, at a dead-vertical, thin crack/seam splitting a 12' wide square-cut buttress.

Protection 

All Trad: nuts and small to medium cams.
There is a fixed anchor (Two 3 1/2" bolts with ss rap anchors, August 2009) after passing the difficult climbing, at 80'

Photos of Plumb Line Slideshow

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BETA PHOTO: plumb line from the patio ledge. The attic belay l...	Jamie McNeill heading toward the crux of Plumb...	Doc not finding it easy to get to the crux on Plum...
Doc on Plumb Line	Doc doing the Plumb Line crux statically. Well at...	Alex on Plumb Line.
Alex into the difficulties, scoping the line.	Not easy getting to the crux on Plumb Line	Alex poised at the crux(?) of the upper part of Pl...