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|Type: ||Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.11a [details]|
|FA: ||Jamie McNeill, Alysia Catalfamo, Jay Harrison 8/3/09|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||May- September|
|Submitted By: ||Jay Harrison on Aug 28, 2009|
Jamie McNeill sends the FA, August 3rd, 2009.
P1: Climb up left on small ramps to a stance on top of a tooth-shaped, 2' high flake (same start as Parallel Passage). Traverse R to the crack and then climb the crack directly up through the overhang to the top (100') or to fixed anchors at 80'.
V1: Plumb Line Direct 5.11c
Climb directly up the seam/thin crack from the Patio.
NOTE 4/27/2013: A large chunk of this climb fell down over the winter: a 20' tall, 5' wide, 4' thick block which comprised the right side of the overhang crux section of the route. Looks probable that, once the rock dust is swept off, I suspect this will make the route easier.
The Black Arches Wall is accessible by a 1/2 hour walk along a good herd path through the Boulderwoods and up along the side of the mountain, passing the Measles Wall and South Corner Cliffs along the way.
Start: This route begins on the "Patio", a ledge over a 30-40', scruffy slab, 50' R of Black Arch ArÍte, at a dead-vertical, thin crack/seam splitting a 12' wide square-cut buttress.
All Trad: nuts and small to medium cams.
There is a fixed anchor (Two 3 1/2" bolts with ss rap anchors, August 2009) after passing the difficult climbing, at 80'
BETA PHOTO: plumb line from the patio ledge. The attic belay l...
Jamie McNeill heading toward the crux of Plumb...
Doc not finding it easy to get to the crux on Plum...
Doc on Plumb Line
Doc doing the Plumb Line crux statically. Well at...
Alex on Plumb Line.
Alex into the difficulties, scoping the line.
Not easy getting to the crux on Plumb Line
Alex poised at the crux(?) of the upper part of Pl...
|By Jim Lawyer|
Aug 29, 2009
Is this .10c or .11a?
Jun 27, 2011
I am confused by Jim's comment. If you start from the Patio, thus avoiding the difficult slab what does it go at? And while we are at it, what is the rating for the climbing up the slab to the Patio?
|By Jim Lawyer|
Jun 28, 2011
Straight up is .11c. Alternatively, you can start on the neighboring route to the left and traverse in above the .11c part, making the route (in my opinion) .10d/.11a.
|By Jaysen Henderson|
Aug 6, 2011
this route looks amazing, has anyone done the direct start yet?