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 ADVANCED
Plumb Line Gully
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A Little Razz-Ma-Tazz and All That Jazz T 
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Plumb Line T,TR 

Plumb Line 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: FA: Ted Wilson, FFA: George Lowe, 1968
Page Views: 3,202
Submitted By: Vince Romney on Mar 22, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (71)
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Tim nabbing the OS!

Description 

Below and slightly east of the The Thumb is a small, slightly triangular wall leaning just shy of vertical. Splitting this wall is a thin fingertips-to-thin-hands crack which begged ascent pre-1968 when Mayor Ted aided it and named it Plumb Line. Today, it's a classic, steep finger crack which despite it's lengthy approach is a must do (and one which I do at least once a year for grins). Follow the approach description under The Thumb
. Gather your less-than-1.5" pro, and prep for an entertaining climb.

Begin right at the base of the crack, and attain a stance right below the steepest part of the crack. Place a piece as high as you can, and then work slightly left of the crack for two moves, and then back directly into the crack (If you choose the Acute Angle Variation - 5.9, this is where you'll joining the crack). Continue up the ever-widening crack to the relatively recent two-bolt belay.

When I first did this (see the "action photos") the tree at the top was the belay anchor and there was still a bush growing at the top of the crux. Now there are two glue-ins. The last 15' warrant tape if you're as wimpy as I am.


Protection 

Small to medium nuts and small cams to 1.5"



Photos of Plumb Line Slideshow Add Photo
pretty darn good...if only it was 600ft. longer
pretty darn good...if only it was 600ft. longer
This climb is brought to you in part due to generous chickenheads and members like you.
This climb is brought to you in part due to genero...
Vince looks thankfully back down after an early ascent of the Plumb Line, note the small bush at the top of the crux (it's been gone for years).
Vince looks thankfully back down after an early as...
the line runs right under the tree
BETA PHOTO: the line runs right under the tree
The best after work climbing you can imagine in October.
The best after work climbing you can imagine in Oc...
Comments on Plumb Line Add Comment
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By Nathan Fisher
Sep 30, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

A great climb just kind of short. I didn't use anything larger than a .75 camalot or maybe a #1. Fun finger locks until it widens to a more rattling finger size.

By Lee Gitlin
Sep 30, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

There are enough chicken heads down low to avoid shredding your fingertips, but the crux demanded an interesting layback/double-gaston/slap-for-the-jug combination. Microcams are the order of the day. A little longer, and this would be a 3-star route. Worth the hike.

By Anonymous Coward
May 23, 2005

Some other fun routes in the area are Hangman 9+, and Boomerang 10a. Bring multiple yellow TCU's for Boomerang. Great pitch, that sees little traffic so it can be gritty, REALLY a great climb though. Crux feels like if you popped you'd snap all your fingers! YIKES! Probably not, but a way fun route! Give it a try, and recomend it to others, so it will stay clean.

By Rob C.
From: Freeport, ME
Oct 13, 2006

This is a really satisfying lead!

By sfotex
From: Sandy, UT
Jul 16, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

What a great climb and a fun lead! Got in some marginal small stoppers at the start, then got a bomber #5 stopper in to to protect the crux.

By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Sep 13, 2010

This is a plumb of a line! Great for practicing sewing skills - nuts to .75 and thanks so much for the new anchors that will save the beautiful Mahogany!

By Charlie S
From: Ogden, UT
Nov 26, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Wow! Amazing move after amazing move! All the cruxes are well protected. Awesome, awesome climb.

By Sam Cannon
From: Holladay, Utah
Sep 7, 2013

Microcams are the way to go. Placed a 0,1,2,3 and 4 Metolius, as well as a small nut at the start. Crux is balancy and very delicate but protects very, very safely. As an emerging 5.10a trad leader this was a great climb to cut my teeth on.

By Ryan Arnold
May 2, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Almost as good as Green A.