Plotinus  5.10

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet Consensus:  5.10b/c [details] FA:  J. Erikson and Partner, 1974? Submitted By:  Tony B on Jul 22, 2003 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Plotinus Wall, middle.

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Access via Boulder Falls closed MORE INFO >>> Boulder Falls is open to tourists but the slope and approach to Lower Dream Canyon remains closed until further notice. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This route is a diagonal crack that supercedes the more popular 'The Scientist' on the big left-facing wall at the right end of the Plotinus wall. Start on the right edge on jugs and work your way up the arete to step left on the face where you can start getting good stoppers with minimal rope drag. Work up and left on the diagonal crack for some way, passing great crimps and fingerlocks with thin footwork. There is a little vegitation on the line. You can finish by going left all of the way to the corner (Aka Nerve Damage) or as the crack runs out, go straight up the face left of the top of The Scientist (5.9, S) with little gear.The line is good, and is probably 5.10a. Placing stoppers is a little pumpy, and if you 'dialed in' on the other 5.10's on this wall, this one will feel a little harder. A decent line though, despite needing a little weeding.

Protection 

I did this on a full set of nuts and a .4" TCU. A full set of TCU's would make the gear easeir to place and maybe more secure in some spots of the diagonal crack. Additional gear up to 2.5" cams can be used, but is not necessary.