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Plotinus Wall

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Plotinus Wall 


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Location: 40.0068, -105.4064 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 135,734
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Mar 22, 2002
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BETA PHOTO: Plotinus Wall, left side.
  • Access via Boulder Falls closed MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Lots of excellent 5.10 and 5.11 sport climbs have been established here over the past few years, mostly by Bob D'Antonio and Vaino Kodas. A few routes require some supplementary gear in addition to the bolts, so be sure to check the route description before you head up a climb with just quickdraws.

    Bring a 60m rope; there was a serious lowering accident here in 2004 when a belayer let the end of the rope slip through his belay device, and the leader fell 25' to the ground and suffered serious injuries.

    There are also a few trad climbs and runout bolted climbs established many years ago by Jim Erickson, Dan Hare, and others, but these are seldom climbed today.


    Getting There 

    From the intersection of Broadway and Colorado 119 in Boulder, follow Colorado 119 west towards the town of Nederland. About eight miles up the Canyon turn left into a large parking area for Boulder Falls.

    From the Boulder Falls "trail" walk in on the 'tourist path' until you nearly come to a park bench. Switchback to the left between some caged rocks and a tree. Switchback again to the right on top of the rocks. Above you is a second set of caged rocks - pass these on the left (south) end, or climb over. From here, angle up and right on a faint path. There were some small cairns leading the way on 7/12/03. You are aiming for a small 'tunnel' near a dead tree that is, again, up and right from the caged rocks.

    Pass through the tunnel and hike steeply down the other side, heading to the water's edge, and follow a path upstream to a boulder jumble. The Plotinus Wall should be clearly visible uphill at 11:00, and the Wall of Winter Warmth at about 1:00, across the creek.

    Head up through the boulders to the bottom of the wall, just below the bolted slab, "The Scientist".


    Routes 

    Per Greg Hand: beginning with the route farthest up the hill (Left).

    My Buddy 10b/c (start with Bedtime Story, then branch left)
    Bedtime Story 10b
    Sleepless Child 9 (all gear, 1980) follow crack thru tree
    Morpheus 11c - Long, right-facing corner
    Wake Up Call 10b
    Snooze Button 10b
    Chore Boy 10b/c (shares 1st bolt with Snooze)
    Smell the Coffee 10a
    The Daily Grind 10d
    Caffeine Buzz 8 (2nd pitch for Smell the Coffee or Daily Grind)
    Napster 10c (4 bolts along flake)
    Something Obscure 10- (1975 crack, Erickson)
    Tooth Fairy 11c
    Mr. Sandman 10c (behind tree)
    Golden Slumber 10d
    Sleepless in Boulder 11a/b
    The Art of Dreaming 12b/c (rising traverse right)
    The Bobsled 12a
    War on Freedom, 13
    Lucky Strikes 12b Big, inside corner
    Old bolt route right of corner - 11a?

    The following routes begin from a ledge:

    The Scientist 11a/b (impossible looking slab)
    Plotinus 10 (all gear, 1974) follow rising crack
    Rama 11a (V-shaped corner)
    Lucid Dreaming 13a (arete)

    The following routes are around to the right on a ledge overlooking the creek:

    Boulder Quartz System 12a/b
    Tooth and Nail 11a/b (same start as Counting Sheep, then left)
    Counting Sheep 11b
    Sominex 11a/b (start with crack or scramble to ledge from right)
    Sleep Deprivation 10c (start with crack or scramble to ledge from right)

    Below the ledge is one route:

    I Have a Dream 11a 4 bolts


    Climbing Season


    34 Total Routes


    ['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',17],['1 Star',10],['Bomb',0]
    ['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',1],['5.10',16],['5.11',10],['5.12',5],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

    The Classics

    Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Plotinus Wall:
    Smell the Coffee   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Left Side
    Mr. Sandman   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Left Side
    Wake Up Call   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Left Side
    Snooze Button   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Left Side
    The Daily Grind   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Left Side
    Chore Boy   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Left Side
    The Scientist   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Middle
    Sleepless in Boulder   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch   Left Side
    Morpheus   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch   Left Side
    The Bobsled   5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   Left Side
    Boulder Quartz System   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   Right Side
    Lucky Strikes   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch   Left Side
    Bobsled Direct Start aka War Sled   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Left Side
    The Art of Dreaming   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch   Left Side
    Lucid Dreaming   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch   Middle
    War On Freedom   5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Left Side
    Browse More Classics in Plotinus Wall

    Featured Route For Plotinus Wall
    Ridge dreaming of air well before the crux on LC; photo by Bob Ratliff.

    Lucid Dreaming 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b  CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : Middle
    Just right of Rama on the Plotinus Wall is a beautiful, overhanging arete. This is Lucid Dreaming. Stick-clip the first bolt then power up a series of tricky, strenuous moves to a stopper move near the the fourth bolt. Crank up over the bulge and follow the steep face up to a two-bolt anchor. Classic and hard arete climbing on beautiful granite. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

    Local Information for Plotinus Wall
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    News
    Aug 18 New Feature: Season Charts   1
    Aug 15 Wayne Crill's Fundraiser 0
    Jul 9 Access Fund is hiring in Boulder 0
    Jun 11 New Women's Speed Record on the Nose   6
    Jun 7 A Tribute to Jeff Lowe   4
    May 15 MP Mobile App: Partnered with Black Diamond and now Free   4

    [ Read All News ]
    Upcoming Events
    Sep 20Mickey Mouse Re-bolt Day
    Sep 26Reel Rock 2014 - South Denver
    Photos of Plotinus Wall Slideshow Add Photo
    Upper and Lower Dream Canyon <br /> <br />Modified from original by Vaino Kodas.
    BETA PHOTO: Upper and Lower Dream Canyon

    Modified from origin...
    Plotinus Wall, middle.
    BETA PHOTO: Plotinus Wall, middle.
    The Plotinus Wall
    BETA PHOTO: The Plotinus Wall
    Plotinus Wall, right side
    BETA PHOTO: Plotinus Wall, right side
    Lower Dream Canyon
    BETA PHOTO: Lower Dream Canyon
    Comments on Plotinus Wall Add Comment
    Show which comments
    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 12, 2012
    By S. Kimball
    Oct 22, 2002

    This place is magnificent,Plotinus and Wall W.W... but whats the deal? Is there any other approach besides the obvious tresspass above Boulder Falls Trail? And what's the status of the rocks themself?

    By Peter Beal
    From: Boulder Colorado
    Mar 17, 2003

    I have a suggestion for the Plotinus wall. If someone could put together a topo showing the routes from left to right with names and grades, they would be a lot easier to locate. The descriptions currently refer to an adjacent route which often refers to another adjacent route, and so on, making it harder to figure out what's what. How about it, Bob?

    By Greg Hand
    From: Golden, CO
    Mar 24, 2003

    In response to Peter's request for ordering the routes, I have tried to to that. Thanks to Vaino for some of the info.

    Plotinus Wall routes Left to Right
    Beginning with the route farthest up the hill (Left).

    My Buddy 10b/c * (start with Bedtime Story, then branch left)
    Bedtime Story 10b **
    Sleepless Child 9 (all gear, 1980) follow crack thru tree
    Morpheus 11c ** - Long right-facing corner
    Wake Up Call 10b **
    Snooze Button 10b ***
    Chore Boy 10b/c ** (shares 1st bolt with Snooze)
    Smell the Coffee 10a **
    The Daily Grind 10d *
    Caffeine Buzz 8 * (2nd pitch for Smell the Coffee or Daily Grind)
    Napster 10c * (4 bolts along flake)
    Something Obscure 10- (1975 crack, Erickson)
    Tooth Fairy 11c **
    Mr. Sandman 10c ** (behind tree)
    Golden Slumber 10d **
    Sleepless in Boulder 11a/b **
    The Art of Dreaming 12b/c ** (rising traverse right)
    The Bobsled 12a **
    Project
    Lucky Strikes 12b ** Big inside corner
    Old bolt route right of corner - 11a?

    The following routes begin from a ledge:

    The Scientist 11a/b *** (impossible looking slab)
    Plotinus 10 (all gear, 1974) follow rising crack
    Rama 11a ** (V-shaped corner)
    Lucid Dreaming 13a *** (arete)

    The following routes are around to the right on a ledge overlooking the creek:

    Boulder Quartz System 12a/b **
    Tooth and Nail 11a/b ** (same start as Counting Sheep, then left)
    Counting Sheep 11b *
    Sominex 11a/b * (start with crack or scramble to ledge from right)
    Sleep Deprivation 10c * (start with crack or scramble to ledge from right)

    Below the ledge is one route:

    I Have a Dream 11a * 4 bolts

    By Matt Chan
    From: Boulder
    Jun 22, 2004

    I love the VK initials hidden in the photos for this area. Thanks for the fantastic topos Vaino!

    By bwillem
    From: the wasatch
    Jun 30, 2007

    Has the project right of the Bobsled been sent? Grade?

    By Matt Lippmann
    From: Seattle, WA
    Sep 1, 2007

    I was just up at Plotinus today and saw multiple signs indicating the climbing areas are closed. Anyone know what the deal is?

    By chuck ziulkowski
    Mar 18, 2008

    I sent the project, War on Freedom, March 8th. Does anyone know if it's been sent before? Let me know. I think it's 13 b/c.
    chuck ziulkowski

    By Peter Beal
    From: Boulder Colorado
    Mar 20, 2008

    Good for him--that's a hard climb, even if you're tall. Good to hear he's in shape!

    By Phill T
    Jun 29, 2008

    Tried to climb here on 6/28/08, the trail from Boulder Falls is closed citing that it is private property. Any other way in besides hiking all the way down from Upper Dream?

    By Tacochamp
    Oct 18, 2008

    Found a rope in a blue rope bag on Sat Oct 18th - left by a group of 3 climbers. Contact me if it's yours.

    By 303scott
    Apr 11, 2010

    Just hiked to Plotinus from Upper Dream b/c Boulder Falls is still closed. Kind of a 3-hour nightmare tromp through the woods and various wrong gullies, but the following should help the next poor soul.

    From the UD parking lot find the emergency phone. 20 feet southwest of that is an 8x8 post about 12 feet high. Line up the emergency phone pole and the post and walk along that line across a field towards a private property sign nailed to a tree. Find a faint trail about 10 or 15 feet into the trees on the right (west) side of the private property sign. Follow that trail skirting on the edge of private property signs (and always within view of houses) down a small gully and then back up the other side. The trail will become undefined as you hike back up out of the gully. Continue walking south/southwest until you hit a 4 foot high wooden slat fence making sure too keep the private property signs to the east. Go right (west) to the end of the fence (presumably the end of the private property). Go around the end and follow a faint trail south into a steep, loose, crappy gully. Scramble down said crappy gully several hundred meters until you hit a series of ledges. If the ledges are wet, you may want to go to climber's left and try downclimbing a corner (low 5th) for about 20 feet. Scramble down more scree to the river, find some logs across, and then hike up to Plotinus. I would expect at least 30-45 minutes for the approach and longer for the return. In my opinion, the trip isn't worth the trouble, but there it is.

    Incidentally, I have no idea if any or all of this route is on private property, but judging from the private property signs that are always east of the route I think it is on public property. If it is private, let me know and I will remove this post.

    By Chip Loomis
    Apr 30, 2011

    Are there new routes to the left of Mr. Sandman? Anyone know their ratings?

    By mrbiscoop
    Oct 6, 2011

    Anyone have any new info on the approach?

    By Robert Smith
    May 16, 2012

    Pants and RI sweatshirt accidentally left at base of Plotinus Wall. Someone took them. You know who you are. Please return them. Email me at robsmithers16@yahoo.com

    By EDJ
    From: Eldorado Springs, Colorado
    Nov 12, 2012

    Thank you for posting that you found my device...could you call me at 303 656 1550 to arrange getting it? Thanks again.