Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Horse Rampart
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
AAA TR 
Archery TR 
Between the Cheeks TR 
Debauchery TR 
Horse with No Name T,TR 
Horse, The T,TR 
Lechery T,TR 
Moby Dick T,TR 
Monarch T,TR 
Mother Smucker's Jam T,TR 
Mung T 
Peanut Butter T,TR 
Plethora T 
Primak's Surprise T,TR 
Pullman Car T,TR 
Roger's Roof T,TR 
Scavenger of Sorrow T,TR 
Scuz TR 
Sugar-free Jam T,TR 
Teetering Tower TR 
Teetering Tower Chimney T,TR 
Treachery T,TR 
Via Apia T,TR 
Woger's Woof Wightside TR 
Wolf Dog T,TR 

Plethora 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: probably pete cleveland
Page Views: 2,238
Submitted By: Steve Sangdahl on Mar 25, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Devils Lake. Henning Boldt on the opening moves of...

Description 

this is a fun little route with two contrasting sections and good gear to boot.also nearby is Mung 5.9 +

Protection 

wires and such


Photos of Plethora Slideshow Add Photo
Devils Lake. Plethora. Just past the first crux. H...
Devils Lake. Plethora. Just past the first crux. H...
This is the fall onto the ledge that bruised my he...
This is the fall onto the ledge that bruised my he...
Devils Lake. Upper crux of Plethora. Henning Boldt...
Devils Lake. Upper crux of Plethora. Henning Boldt...
Devils Lake. Plethora. Crux. Henning Boldt leading...
Devils Lake. Plethora. Crux. Henning Boldt leading...
Moving through the crux of Plethora. Photo: Sarah ...
Moving through the crux of Plethora. Photo: Sarah ...
Pulling through the crux. Photo: Sarah Brengosz
Pulling through the crux. Photo: Sarah Brengosz
Great stemming and gear through the lower section....
Great stemming and gear through the lower section....
Remo on the upper crux. Sketchy feet here.
Remo on the upper crux. Sketchy feet here.
Breezing the lower section of Plethora... A lead s...
Breezing the lower section of Plethora... A lead s...

Comments on Plethora Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 21, 2014
By Anonymous Coward
Apr 19, 2005

Stem high on the first corner and place a wire, back down a bit and reach around the right edge for holds. Good luck on the second bit, sloping barndoor laybacks (at least the pro is in your face).
By Kevin Fons
Apr 30, 2005

This is a fun route with a ton of differnet climbing on it.
By richard bechler
Aug 13, 2008

This is a great route to save for a on sight lead.Unless of course you are Kevin Fons,in which case you should bring etriers and a full aid rack including a pin rack with 2 each kb,s and arrows AND A PORTALEDGE
By EB
From: Winona
Oct 23, 2008

Pete told me that this was one of the proudest sends he put up at the lake. That alone should be enough to get you on it...
By Hard Rock
From: Missoula, MT
May 20, 2009

Tom Kelly and I worked it in 1985. We fell so many times on the top crux we broke a strand of wire on the cable (stopper) when we were trying to use a crappy jam. I finally got it when I used an undercling jam and reach by the crux. Good climb.

-Hard Rock
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
May 23, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I thought the lower section was the crux of the climb, like many other DL climbs, but the upper crux really gives you a run for your money. HARD boulder problem up top with a balancing act down low- sick climb. Awesome! It will be a long time before I grow the cajones to lead this one.
By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Aug 23, 2010

Lead it Andy. Just suss the gear placements first a few times and go for it. It really takes pretty good gear for the grade and being a DL route. You can place gear at the upper crux that would take falls no problem. The lower starting crux is a different matter. It takes a few good small TCUs and a wire if I remember right to protect it but you wouldn't want to blow it placing them....
By Tradoholic
Sep 10, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13

I disagree slightly...

Pro is good low but the moves are balancey and a foot could easily skate bringing you a whipper.

The upper crux was the hardest part I'd say, I kept going up and down for 20 minutes before I could commit. I put in tons of pieces but none seemed all that good and the upper piece I couldn't quite tell was good from below until I did the hard moves and had a good look at it. If I'd known it was so bomber I probably would've sacked up earlier!

BTW, I used the right corner in the upper crux, (it appears Henning did not) it seemed well within reach and thus, in play.

A variation in the guidebook is named "Ptolemy" and reads as follows:
"Start just right of corner. Climb face until under roof. Step up left around corner with out using Plethora crack. Move up right and over roof. Continue on Plethora, Primaks Surprise or the 5.5 (to the right)" 5.10d
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Sep 13, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I'd have to agree that the crux is the upper section. The bottom felt like solid 5.10d . The upper moves felt like 5.11a . I finished it up the way Henning did, but only because I was too weak to use that crap on the right.
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Sep 14, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I know this goes against the grain of the "ground up" ethos but Nick, what pieces did you put in at the upper crux? I agree that the upper section is certainly the crux and it bucks me off every single time. Did you use the far right blocky corner? I don't mind whipping but a slight sense of security would be good and since you say the gear is So-So I'd like to know what actually works.
By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Sep 14, 2010

Hey - no arguement the upper crux is the major crux on Plethora. It is a strange move and not obvious. You do this palm up thing if I remember correctly and a reach through and the feet are high and insecure. The bottom starting crux is easier and more straight forward and takes gear in obvious and visible places right at the hand holds (or finger locks) but my point was that your gonna deck down there if you blow it. At the upper crux I do remember being able to stack in a few pieces before committing and I wasn't worried about decking although like Nick states I also went up and down quite a few times before pulling through. Wish I could recall what it was I placed excatly Andy and give advice but I'm drawing a blank other then a cam where the crack was a bit more open above the problem moves. The corner off to the right isn't really any help is it unless you totally commit to going that way instead??
By Tradoholic
Sep 14, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13

I few small wires backed up with some BD C3's right off the ledge Andy but it was the bomber nut above the under-cling that was key.

The right hand corner allowed me to get my feet up and reach into the under-cling as secure as possible.
By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Sep 14, 2010

Who cares about ground up rules. Check the thing out on TR first for gear placements and go for it. Safety first.. It's all about the process and the path you take to build up to being able to onsight lead. As long as you are not pounding pins or drilling bolt holes ain't no one except the most self righteous self proclaimed purist who is gonna be critical and even not then if your ultimately honest about your tactics... Unless you just wanna save it for the onsight.. I guess you could say there are only really a handful of 5.10 and 11's at the Lake that protect reasonably well for the Trad lead...
By Tradoholic
Sep 15, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13

Definitely head point this thing Andy. If I had been able to know exactly how this thing would go beforehand it probably would have gone much nicer.

With the tricky pro at DL no one pulls the "ground up or you are a pussy" attitude. Only after years of head-pointing did I gain the confidence to on-sight over 5.8.

Throughfare, Happy Hunting Grounds, Tardis and Vivisection are all good leads as well in this range.
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Sep 15, 2010
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Great route! Not as hard as other 11a's in the park. The break in the middle makes it seem easier.
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Apr 6, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Plethora is the hardest 10d I've ever come across. Maybe it was F10 in the old guide and just got transferred over to 5.10. That would make sense considering that Bagatelle was F10c.
By James M Schroeder
From: Sauk County, WI
May 21, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

The upper crux is cryptic, tenuous and a bit dynamic. The moves might not require a ton of "grrrrr" factor, but they are not obvious and require a fair amount of finesse. I can think of 11b's (Seven Seas and Coup de'Tat) in the park I think are easier, and 11a's (Beginner's Demise and Black Rib) I think are harder. I think Devil's Lake 5.10d might be fair, in the same way Birch Tree is Devil's Lake 5.8 - if you are on a top rope and know the key beta beforehand it climbs the grade, but if you aren't or, more importantly, don't...

Anyway I think 5.11a is fair. How's that for some hair-splitting nuanced grading?