Pleasure By Ambush
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Start right of Gerbil in a Chute, under the small, chossy roof, with hands on two crimpy edges shoulder width appart and each about 3 feet off the dirt. If you are tall, you can sit. Otherwise, it's a crouching start.
Pull on and either huck to an obvious jug diagonally up and right, or use a sloping crimp to shorten the desperate stab.
This is really a one-move wonder that can feel hard for 7 on some days and way easy for 6 on others.
Using generous holds, top out the backside slab of the Punani Block, being mindful of loose and fragile rock. A broken hold from here would spit you onto the rocky slab behind the problem.
Note: I gave this problem a name simply for the sake of future identification/discussion. This line has been climbed many times over the years at different stages of its erosion. The edges have seemed to round-off enough now that it may finally be stable.
A couple of pads or one big pad would be helpful, since spotting on dynamic lowballs never works well.
|Comments on Pleasure By Ambush
|By Keith H. North|
From: Englewood, CO
May 20, 2011
rating: V7- 7a+
This problem is fun. There is alternate beta, I started with my hands crossed and a foot out right then went straight toward my foot to the sidepull. From there, the toss is a little smaller/less icky. Top out seemed good, we pulled one hold off this today, but everything else was solid.
|By Jack Sparrow|
From: denver, co
Jan 20, 2013
rating: V3-4 6a+
This problem is very contrived if you start left hand on the better of the two edges then right hand on crimpy undercling 6 inches right of left hand crimp and then pull on, this problem feels much easier than V6 and is more enjoyable this way.