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Pleasure By Ambush
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Avg: 1.7 from 10 votes
Type: | Boulder, 8 ft (2 m) |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 1,379 total · 8/month |
Shared By: | j.jaeger on Jan 17, 2010 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Historical seasonal raptor closures with 2023 updates
Details
Per Castlewood Canyon: there is a new closure for nesting raptors this year: Five and Dime will be closed March 1st through July 31st. If you have any questions please feel free to reach out to me, Rachel Chaffee (Park Ranger) at dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.us or by phone at 303-688-5242.
Per Garrett Garner-Wells:
the current raptor closures, announced by CPW and reported on Denver7:
The following climbing route closures are currently in place:
- Morning Sun Wall is closed March 1-July 31.
- Porky’s Wall is closed March 1 - July 31.
- Vultures Wall is closed March 1-July 31. (per Rachel, CCSP Ranger, dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.use or 303-688-5242)
- Shakespearean Theater is closed March 1-May 31.
- Mind Meld is closed March 1-May 31.
As of 2020:
There is a very new and active nest of owls midway up the cliff at the north end of the Neanderthal Wall between Cro-Mag and Up The Red. There is no active nest around the south end of Neanderthal Wall.
As of June, 2017:
The 3 toprope routes at the far south end of Neanderthal Wall (far north end of Allied Wall) have a nesting pair of Snowy Owls. Please stay off these routes until further notice. The park has been notified and hopefully some signage will be put up. The route Rock Rat is included.
As of March 7, 2012:
Shakespearean Theater - restricted March, April, May.
Mind Meld - restricted March, April, May.
Porky's Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, through July 31.
Vulture Wall - restricted March, April, May.
Morning Sun Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, July.
Per Garrett Garner-Wells:
the current raptor closures, announced by CPW and reported on Denver7:
The following climbing route closures are currently in place:
- Morning Sun Wall is closed March 1-July 31.
- Porky’s Wall is closed March 1 - July 31.
- Vultures Wall is closed March 1-July 31. (per Rachel, CCSP Ranger, dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.use or 303-688-5242)
- Shakespearean Theater is closed March 1-May 31.
- Mind Meld is closed March 1-May 31.
As of 2020:
There is a very new and active nest of owls midway up the cliff at the north end of the Neanderthal Wall between Cro-Mag and Up The Red. There is no active nest around the south end of Neanderthal Wall.
As of June, 2017:
The 3 toprope routes at the far south end of Neanderthal Wall (far north end of Allied Wall) have a nesting pair of Snowy Owls. Please stay off these routes until further notice. The park has been notified and hopefully some signage will be put up. The route Rock Rat is included.
As of March 7, 2012:
Shakespearean Theater - restricted March, April, May.
Mind Meld - restricted March, April, May.
Porky's Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, through July 31.
Vulture Wall - restricted March, April, May.
Morning Sun Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, July.
Description
Start right of Gerbil in a Chute, under the small, chossy roof, with hands on two crimpy edges shoulder width apart and each about 3 feet off the dirt. If you are tall, you can sit. Otherwise, it's a crouching start.
Pull on and either huck to an obvious jug diagonally up and right, or use a sloping crimp to shorten the desperate stab.
This is really a one-move wonder that can feel hard for 7 on some days and way easy for 6 on others.
Using generous holds, top out the backside slab of the Punani Block, being mindful of loose and fragile rock. A broken hold from here would spit you onto the rocky slab behind the problem.
Note: I gave this problem a name simply for the sake of future identification/discussion. This line has been climbed many times over the years at different stages of its erosion. The edges have seemed to round-off enough now that it may finally be stable.
Pull on and either huck to an obvious jug diagonally up and right, or use a sloping crimp to shorten the desperate stab.
This is really a one-move wonder that can feel hard for 7 on some days and way easy for 6 on others.
Using generous holds, top out the backside slab of the Punani Block, being mindful of loose and fragile rock. A broken hold from here would spit you onto the rocky slab behind the problem.
Note: I gave this problem a name simply for the sake of future identification/discussion. This line has been climbed many times over the years at different stages of its erosion. The edges have seemed to round-off enough now that it may finally be stable.
Photos
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