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By John Maguire
From Boulder, CO
Apr 22, 2010
Bastille Crack Final Pitch
So I've just been offered what I think is my dream job (internship) in Aerospace. The problem is that I will probably have to move to:

Marietta Georgia or Fort Worth Texas.

I know the economy sucks and I don't want to be ungrateful, but am I completely screwed for climbing? Is one of these locations better than the other. I want to be trad climbing...sport if I have to. A summer of bouldering as a last option....

FLAG
By Mike Pharris
From Longmont, CO
Apr 22, 2010
Climbing above Black Lake
Isn't Marietta pretty close (well sort of anyway) to Chattanooga?

Fort Worth - how far from Austin? I don't know squat about TX geography.

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By Lanky
From Portland, ME
Apr 22, 2010
Marietta is less than 2 hrs from Chattanooga. That'd be my choice.

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By csproul
From Rancho Cordova, CA
Apr 22, 2010
Summit of Wolf's Head with Pingora in the background
Marietta...good
Fort Worth...bad

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By saxfiend
Administrator
From Decatur, GA
Apr 22, 2010
Relaxing at the P1 belay of Fruit Loops at Rumbling Bald.
I can't comment on Fort Worth, but I can tell you that Marietta will put you in close proximity to a lot of great trad climbing:

  • North Georgia (1-2 hours' drive): Tallulah Gorge, Mount Yonah, Lost Wall
  • Chattanooga (~2 hours): Tennessee Wall, Sunset Park, Suck Creek
  • Alabama (2-3 hours): Jamestown, Steele, Sand Rock
  • North Carolina (3-6 hours): Laurel Knob, Looking Glass, Stone Mountain, Moore's Wall, Whiteside
  • Kentucky (6-8 hours): Red River Gorge

So I think you'd be pretty happy in Marietta.

JL

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By Phil Lauffen
From The Bubble
Apr 22, 2010
RMNP skiing. Photo by Nodin de Saillan
definitely fort worth

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By Mike Anderson
From Dayton, OH
Apr 22, 2010
Must be Lockheed? Good for you!

The rock in the deep south is much better quality, and greater quantity than what you would have in Texas. Unfortunately, the weather is worse. You'll have prime bouldering season in mid winter (Dec, Jan, Feb), and good cragging weather in late fall/early spring. During the summer, you'll want to kill yourself. There are some crags above 4,000' elevation in NC that stay shady and are viable options for summer cragging, but it's still kinda miserable with the bugs and humidity. I spent a week in Macon, Georgia for work and it was probably the most boring place I've ever been. Marietta looks like a much better location.

My understanding of Texas weather is that it will be as hot, but not as humid in the summer, and colder in the winter. It is closer for driving and flying to the west, but the rock is not as good, and there isn't as much. There are several chossy, small limestone cliffs around Austin, I hear Reimer's is good, but short, and Enchanted Rock is cool, but small (as I remember it).

I would go with Georgia.

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By Mike Anderson
From Dayton, OH
Apr 22, 2010
Wait, is this just a summer internship, or will it be longterm?

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By Monomaniac
Administrator
From Morrison, CO
Apr 22, 2010
Insurrection, 5.14c.  Photo Adam Sanders.
Isn't the point of an internship that you hope it will eventually become longterm?

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By Brian in SLC
Apr 22, 2010
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch
Tough choice...

Seem to recall that Salt Lake City is closer to Hueco Tanks than Dallas/Fort Worth is. That's how friggin' big Tejas is.

Have to say Georgia would be closer to rock climbing. Especially weekend warrior type stuff. More rock and more venues to choose from.

Some of the rock in OK and AR is fairly close, reasonable for a two day weekend. Enchanted Rock? 4.5 hours, so, not too bad. Fun place. (I have my Dome Driver's license!).

I lived in the big D for a summer. Hmmm...

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By John Maguire
From Boulder, CO
Apr 22, 2010
Bastille Crack Final Pitch
I really want to say thank you to everyone whose responsed so far. It means a lot to me to have the input from some of you out there. I'll post up when I make a decision but I'm still not sure. There are some other factors that make Texas a better choice, but a summer without climbing is something that I'm not willing to accept.

Please keep the responses coming if you thing there is something that hasn't been said. Once again, thanks a lot.

FLAG
By Lanky
From Portland, ME
Apr 23, 2010
There's an active climbing community in Austin (see sendaustin.com for one perspective, and this guy lives there: merrickales.com/). Maybe try to contact someone local and find out if you dig what they've got.

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By camhead
From Vandalia, Appalachia
Apr 23, 2010
You stay away from mah pig!
Another vote for Georgia. You are centrally located for most good Southeastern Sandstone, and from what I have heard, many of NC's higher crags are good through the summer.

I went to grad school in Dallas, so here's the deal with TX: mediocre bouldering within 1.5 hrs. Really good granite about 3.5 hours away both to the south (Enchanted Rock) and the north (Wichitas and Quartz Mtn). The excellent sandstone of Arkansas is as close as 7 hours away, and well worth it for a weekend. Finally, Mexico is about an 8 hours drive, depending on the border crossing.

Weatherwise, TX is just as hot as the deep south in the summer, and nearly as humid (though there are some good DWS spots south of Fort Worth. You just won't have the option of the Appalachian "mountains." But spring, fall, and much of winter will be great in both spots.

So, neither choice is terrible, you're way better off than, say, moving to Florida or Nebraska.

(edited to say that, though I don't know Marietta at all, I would be willing to bet that the climbing gyms in Dallas-Ft. Worth are better and more plentiful, if you are into that sort of thing.)

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By Mike Anderson
From Dayton, OH
Apr 26, 2010
There is at least one nice gym in Hotlanta, and I heard a new one was being built.

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By Reece Henson
From Knoxville, TN
Jul 7, 2010
Photo by Paul Hassell
Mike Anderson wrote:
There is at least one nice gym in Hotlanta, and I heard a new one was being built.


Climbing in the gym is great in the winter and to train but doesn't compare to outside in my opinion. I vote ga for sure. Chatt town has exelent places to climb for both summer (sunset) and winter (t wall) and are both some of the best trad destinations in the east

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By Reece Henson
From Knoxville, TN
Jul 7, 2010
Photo by Paul Hassell
Mike Anderson wrote:
There is at least one nice gym in Hotlanta, and I heard a new one was being built.


Climbing in the gym is great in the winter and to train but doesn't compare to outside in my opinion. I vote ga for sure. Chatt town has exelent places to climb for both summer (sunset) and winter (t wall) and are both some of the best trad destinations in the east

FLAG
 
By J C Wilks
From Loveland, CO
Jul 7, 2010
I've climbed at Enchanted Rock (4hrs)) when it was 102 in the shade in Aug. while training to climb in cooler destinations. It's usually cooler in the Wichita Mts. (3.5 hrs). Quartz Mts Ok are 4.5hrs away. All these places have quality granite.

Winter doesn't settle in the way it does here in CO. It comes for a visit for a week or two at a time I like to say. The rest of winter is mild. So you can climb year around there from Ft Worth if you don't mind being a road warrior.

Hueco Tanks is 9 hrs, makes a good place to visit once a year. All of these areas have up to 3 pitch routes but mostly lots of shorter ones.

Reimers and Austin limestone can be chossy or quality, just depends on the route. They are much less than one pitch.

Sandia Mts NM are 9 hrs. They have just about any kind of climbing you'd want. I'd go there also about once a year.

There's also Robber's Cave Ok, 4hrs which has short routes on quality sandstone and lots of bouldering.

Mt Magazine AR is about 7 hrs with one pitch sandstone, also good rock. Haven't been to Sam's Throne but I hear it's good.

Lake Belton area (Rogers Park?) has good legal bouldering. Possum Kingdom Lake and Lake Whitney areas have good trespass limestone if you don't mind being shot at and dealing with backcountry sheriffs. The Quarry in OK if you really want to push yer luck.

Mineral Wells with funky conglomerate sandstone is like a big climbing gym 30 min from west Ft W.

That's the curcuit we'd run when climbing from FtW. The gyms are as good as most.

I've never been to GA so can't comment on it.

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By dameeser
From denver
Jul 7, 2010
Vanagon
mineral wells is all top rope right?

Dallas has the humidity, bugs, and heat, although not as bad as louisiana. It's still rough.

I would rather be closer to chattanooga (climbing\rivers) and rrg then in a big city like dfw. I grew up there. yuck.

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By Jasmine Kall
Jul 7, 2010
Getting ready to climb!
Focus and do your best ether place you go and then focus on getting the company to move you to San Diego (they have a division right down the street) - Climbing and surfing year round!

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By John Maguire
From Boulder, CO
Jul 7, 2010
Bastille Crack Final Pitch
I guess this thread has come alive again - I'll admit that for the most part I forgot I had started it. I appreciate everyones input. In the end I decided to go to DFW. Texas kind of sucks but the job here is really good and I think there will be room for me to move around with the company if I stay with them.

I have been to enchanted rock and plan to go back, as well as to hit up Wichita Mountain. I have been climbing a lot at Summit Gym in Grapevine. Coming from Boulder, though, its weird to drive 40 min to a climbing gym.

I think I made the responsible choice, choosing this location. Thanks again for the input everyone!

FLAG
By J C Wilks
From Loveland, CO
Jul 7, 2010
dameeser wrote:
mineral wells is all top rope right?



No lead or bouldering. I can understand the no lead climbing since the rock is soft but no bouldering?

Hope you're enjoying Fort Worth in general John.

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By Mike McMahon
From Vernal, Utah
Sep 21, 2010
Summit of The Cenotaph Spire.  Moab.
J C Wylks wrote:
Possum Kingdom Lake and Lake Whitney areas have good trespass limestone if you don't mind being shot at and dealing with backcountry sheriffs.



.... I just started exploring some of the cliffs in Possum Kingdom Lake. The rock-quality is pretty good. I suppose access is legal if you swim/paddle/motor out to them. What could be better than warm 80 ft. deep water- for climbing?



...other than actual mountains...

FLAG


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