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New Vice Area
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Jenna's Chimney T,S,TR 
Jenna's Face T,S,TR 
Living Postmortems S 
New Tomorrow S 
No Whippin Boys T 
Pandemonium S 
Pleasant Summer Absence S 
Prairie Fire S 
Syncopation T,TR 
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Way Knarly Dudes T,TR 

Pleasant Summer Absence 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Nate Postma, 1991
Page Views: 753
Submitted By: Ian Harmon on Jun 6, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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BETA PHOTO: Pleasant Summer Absence (blue rope), climber at to...

Description 

I thought this route was quite pleasant, indeed!! I didn't think it was as hard as 5.10a, although maybe I cheated around a crux?? The holds were a little dirty due to lack of traffic, however IMHO this was completely made up for by the friction present. None of the holds seemed polished, making this a nice change from the typical Red Wing routes.
  • RCM&W #101, p.135.

Location 

This route lies to the right of B.F. Bugs and around 20 yards to the left of Goofed On Skunk Weed up and over a small hill.

Protection 

4 bolts to a rusty chain and open hook. You might want to leave the last bolt clipped as a backup if you are top roping. Please use your own gear if top roping.


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By Andrew R.
From: Fairfax, VA
Jun 2, 2010
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I enjoyed this route as well! When the other parts of New Vice area are full of 7 person groups this route and BF Bugs will probably be open. If so go climb them. They are fun.