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South Peak - West Face
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Pleasant Overhangs 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 10,129
Submitted By: Jesse Morehouse on May 27, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (76)
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Description 

A classic by any stretch of the imagination and hard to find free on the weekend.

P1. Start up inside corner left of Thais and step left to stance with old pins at right edge of large roof. Don't trust the pins alone for belay!

P2. The crux of the route is likely stepping off the belay. Traverse left under roof to its end and another gear belay. Some like to bring a #4 camalot for the P2 belay.

P3. Climb up large holds on steep ground to top. This is a spectacular pitch.

Location 

Begins in corner up and left of Thais face.

Protection 

Std rack with possible addition of a #4 camalot.


Photos of Pleasant Overhangs Slideshow Add Photo
Heading out on P2.
Heading out on P2.
Wikswo leading the P2 traverse.
Wikswo leading the P2 traverse.
Two "very cool" dudes rapping down Pleasant Overhangs.
Two "very cool" dudes rapping down Pleas...
Jonathan leading pitch 2 of Pleasant Overhangs. Thin moves off the belay ledge.
Jonathan leading pitch 2 of Pleasant Overhangs. Th...
A little farther along on P2. Trying to blend in.
A little farther along on P2. Trying to blend in.

Comments on Pleasant Overhangs Add Comment
Show which comments
By Joe Dietrick
Feb 6, 2009

Classic route. Not too difficult but great exposure. A must do at Seneca! Makes for a good view for the tourist at the Visitors Center.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Feb 6, 2009
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This was the firtst route I ever tried to do at Seneca.
Somehow I got the routes mixed up and did 'Direct Toe' (5.10b, R) by mistake. Needless to say, for a few moments, the rumors of Seneca Sandbagging certainly felt true.
Only a year or two later did I finally get the right line. Felt a little hard at the grade, but not like a 10b!
By Eric Kuenstner
From: Washington, DC
Aug 6, 2011

the first pitch pales in comparison to the exposure and wild nature of the second and third pitches but still manages to have some fun somewhat runout moves in the corner below the belay. looking at the ominous roof from a distance, it's hard to believe that it goes at anything below 5.10, but jugs abound and the feet are solid the entire traverse. absolutely classic. even the rap over the big roof is pretty sweet (be sure to bring two 60's for it!)
By Josh Smethers
From: Malvern, pa
Oct 14, 2011
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Very cool climb, both P2 and P3. The climbing is a little strange under the huge roof, but such a cool view. I thought the start of the third pitch was the crux, moving from the belay- my partner had set up a very hanging belay just below the buldge. This made it dificult, but do-able. Definitely a great all around climb. Though, I would find different pitch to climb to the first belay.
By Rafael Rovirosa
From: Las Cruces, NM
Oct 24, 2011

Fun climb. For the hanging belay after the second pitch I used number 4 tcu's for the anchor.
By Mel Rudick
Sep 3, 2013

I was on this route yesterday, first time at Seneca, and climbed the first pitch through a steep-ish lieback that is a bit left of the regular start. It has a couple of old pitons and a scary old spinner bolt at a crux move at the top of the pitch, putting you about midway through the roof traverse. Does anyone have info on this start? It felt a bit harder than 5.7, so I imagine I was off route. No one around there knew what I was talking about when I asked. Thanks!
By Benjaminadk
From: Lake George, NY
Sep 15, 2013

standard p1 is mostly junk (Thias Direct p1 instead way better and a bit spicy w/o big gear)
p2 have got great position and photo ops
p3 is steep and dramatic an awesome finish