|995 page views|
bottom half of Son Tower
Climbs the main face of the tower. Crux is the lower section to the first ledge.
There is a two bolt anchor at the first ledge but the climb continues to the top.
The alternate exit is to the left at the roof but no fixed anchor.
The main face of the Sun Tower
7 bolts to chain anchor
|Comments on Pleasant Dreams
|By Jack Emery|
From: Santa Fe, NM
Nov 24, 2012
The alternative exit to the left at the the top of this climb does not have fixed anchors. If you do the move over the roof (alternative exit) one would have to belay a second climber from above to clean the gear. After hanging on the last bolt on the roof I decided to downclimb, unclip and move to the anchors on Sunshine Daydream. this is where I realized that there are chains to the the left of Sunshine Daydream that are apparently for Pleasant Dreams. If you want to climb to this set of chains do not move to the bolt on the overhang, instead move up right towards Sunshine Daydream. Expect a lot of rope drag. Overall the climbing was not all that enjoyable.
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Feb 8, 2013
rating: 5.9 PG13
I had a similar experience to jack. After completing the moves to the left I found that the best way to clean the route was to pull the entire rope up and rappel from the chains on the right. This made it necessary to swing far to the left to clean. I would not Belay someone from the top of the left option personally.
It is best to finish to the right.
However, it is very fun, but also scary and tedious to finish to the left. Otherwise it isn't worth leading to the right. Just climb the short version.