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 ADVANCED
Middle Finger (backside)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bear, The T,TR 
Cub, The T,TR 
Middle Corner T,TR 
Pick-A-Dilly Prow T,TR 
Pick-A-Dilly Prow Variation T,TR 
Pleasant Dreams T,TR 
Prick-a-Digi Ow! T,TR 

Pleasant Dreams 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Doug Reed, Sean Cobourn
Page Views: 1,314
Submitted By: Chuck Parks on Feb 1, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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Middle Finger Backside Ian Balman leads Pleasant ...

Description 

The overhanging start favors the tall. Need a boost, shorty? Yard up to the flake on good holds, then follow the flake casually upward to a small ledge with a bolt above it. (Trust me, it's there.) Continue upward to the top.

Location 

Roughly in the middle of the wall. Look for a right-facing flake system that leads up to a small horizontal ledge about 40 feet up.

Protection 

light rack, bolted anchors on top


Photos of Pleasant Dreams Slideshow Add Photo
Middle Finger Backside  Pleasant Dreams (5.8)mixed...
Middle Finger Backside Pleasant Dreams (5.8)mixed...
Middle Finger Backside   Ian Balman leads  Pleasan...
Middle Finger Backside Ian Balman leads Pleasan...
Middle Finger Backside  Pleasant Dreams (5.8)mixed...
Middle Finger Backside Pleasant Dreams (5.8)mixed...
Middle Finger Backside  Pleasant Dreams (5.8) mixe...
Middle Finger Backside Pleasant Dreams (5.8) mixe...
beginning of route
beginning of route

Comments on Pleasant Dreams Add Comment
Show which comments
By Eduardo Ramirez
From: Columbia, SC
Feb 8, 2012

By Brandon H - SC
From: Jackson SC
Aug 27, 2012

This is in no way a hard route but it has some really fun moves! If you aren't overly tall there is a neat mantle move off the finger ledge 2/3rds up. If taking gumbies watch that they dont put their finger in the bolt at the crux... dont want any lost fingers

Cheers!