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The best 5.8 at Double Upper and quite possibly the best 5.8 in Bolton. Follow many bolts on the left margin of the main face up low angle terrain to an overhang halfway up the cliff. Pull the overhang on jugs to a ledge with a two bolt belay. P2 : Climb up behind the massive horn of rock with occasional gear to the top of the cliff. Choose from any number of trees to rappel off.
Look for a bolt about 20' up the left most side of the main face slab.
gear to hand sized. lots of draws for P1.
|By Devin Krevetski|
From: West Woodstock, VT
Aug 21, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
climbed the first pitch, with the guidebook published I'm sure this route will see more traffic(cleaning it up). Second pitch looked like brushy/lichen steep-hike thicketeering.
Can't rap to the ground from the anchors, a 60 meter rope will get you below the first bolt and its an easy downclimb from there