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100 Proof S 
Are There Bolts Up There? T 
Big Bro's Watchin' (AKA: Luebben Memorial Route) T 
Black Gold S 
Brennivin T,S 
Clown Loach (temporary name) T,S 
Crackside T 
Crackside Direct (var.) T 
Creekafixion S 
Fish and Chips S 
Fool's Gold S 
Golden Hammer, The S 
Guppy S 
Little Sister S 
Macho Borracho S 
Playin' Hooky S 
Psychotic Love T 
Rhett Wench S 
Rumpleminze aka Drillin' the Bush S 
Shenanigans S 
Solid Gold T,S 
Spun Gold S 
Unknown Big Black Flake T,S 
Winterfest S 

Playin' Hooky 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: P1-3, George Bracksieck & Charly Marchand, 1973?, pre-bolts, D. Montgomery & K. McIlrath, 3-18-10
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 37,535
Submitted By: Monty on Mar 18, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (243)
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In the Middle of Playin' Hooky on the FA.

Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Finally! A mega moderate that graces the slabs of Creekside.

This is a long 1 pitch route that steers clear of the hard last 2 pitches of Solid Gold, and stays consistent with the difficulty of the first 2 beautiful pitches of that route. With that said I want to thank Richard, Mark, and Koko for their excellent route Solid Gold. Their efforts on solid gold are the only reason this route was even possible. So we Thank You.

Start with the first 2 pitches of Solid Gold. I recommend linking both for a full value 200 foot rope-stretcher. This either takes a lot of draws, or some discipline to skip a few bolts through easier terrain (Make sure your belayer is tied in and ready to go, and you belay from the lower of 2 anchors on the ledge.)

P1: (5.9, bolts, 100 feet) this is a 100 foot pitch that goes on bolts and finishes at a double bolt anchor. The rock is solid all the way and kicks out a couple of fun spots.

P2: (5.8, bolts, 100 feet) is also 100 foot long and is largely quite easy with a couple of 5.8 sections, one right off the belay. It finishes on a ledge at a double bolt belay stance. However, for descent purposes, a higher rap anchor was installed that keeps the rope running clean and off the ledge. This stance is ten feet higher than the belay stance.

P3: (5.7, 2 bolts, 40 feet) This is essentially a pitch to move your anchor slightly higher before stepping over to Playin' Hooky. Belay on the large grassy ledge at a 2 bolt anchor.

P4 (5.8, 14 bolts, 150 feet) Time for some exposure! Step right from the belay, clip the first bolt, dodge a bush, and embark on 140 feet of fun climbing with a steep exposed finale. It is possible to walk to the summit from the top of this pitch.

  • There is an intermediate rap station to the right of the climbing line, this allows you to get down with a 60m rope; a 70m rope will not get you back to the ledge with out this anchor!*

Descent: 4 near-100 foot raps with a 60m will get you back down.

R1: From the top of Playin' Hooky, rap 90 feet to the intermediate anchor in the slab.

R2: Knot your ends. 100 feet down to the top of the 2nd pitch of Solid Gold.

R3: Knot your ends. 100 feet down to the hanging belay at the top of pitch 1.

R4: 100 feet down to your packs!

Location 

This is the furthest right bolted route on Creekside. Begin with Solid Gold first 2 pitches, move belay, then step right on to a slab.

The best approach is to park on the west side of tunnel 5 in the same spot as the Dog House/ Cat Slab. From the pullout, walk downstream towards the tunnel, hop the guard rail on the north side of the road, and follow a trail near the river to the base.

DO NOT USE THE TYROLEAN TO APPROACH THIS CLIMB!

Protection 

Bolts, bolts, and more bolts!

60m, a couple slings, and 14 draws should do.
Helmets are certainly recommended.


Photos of Playin' Hooky Slideshow Add Photo
Setting up for the rappel.
Setting up for the rappel.
Rod pulling his second lead ever - on sighting it....
Rod pulling his second lead ever - on sighting it....
Matt finishing up the final pitch of Playin' Hooky...
Matt finishing up the final pitch of Playin' Hooky...
As Brenda starts up pitch 4, far below the rafts p...
As Brenda starts up pitch 4, far below the rafts p...
Topo.
Topo.
Rappelling the route.
Rappelling the route.
Henry on the well exposed final pitch.
Henry on the well exposed final pitch.
View from the anchor on the last pitch of Playin' ...
View from the anchor on the last pitch of Playin' ...
More fun than working.
More fun than working.
View from the topout of pitch 4.
View from the topout of pitch 4.
John nears the top of the 2nd pitch (actually Soli...
John nears the top of the 2nd pitch (actually Soli...
Playin' Hooky, look at the gold panners below.
Playin' Hooky, look at the gold panners below.
At the hanging belay atop Pitch 1. Trad gear will ...
At the hanging belay atop Pitch 1. Trad gear will ...
Looking up the first pitch.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up the first pitch.
Austin from Summit County clipping up the final he...
Austin from Summit County clipping up the final he...
Looking up pitch 4. Bolt on the left is for the So...
BETA PHOTO: Looking up pitch 4. Bolt on the left is for the So...
Rapping the route.
Rapping the route.
Last pitch Matt G.
Last pitch Matt G.
Test.
Test.
Playin' Hooky.
Playin' Hooky.
Despite the road, the rap is pretty scenic.
Despite the road, the rap is pretty scenic.
Second pitch of the climb.
Second pitch of the climb.
A view of the nice ledge right below the first set...
BETA PHOTO: A view of the nice ledge right below the first set...
Good view of the full route from the creek.
BETA PHOTO: Good view of the full route from the creek.

Show All 25 Photos

Only the first 24 are shown above.

Comments on Playin' Hooky Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 14, 2014
By dmanthei
Mar 30, 2010

Well-protected, super fun. Many awesome sections, especially the finish. It is the bombdig. Did this March 30th, the Tics were already out of control.
By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Mar 31, 2010

Glad you liked it. Wading the creek may dramatically decrease your chances of tick encounters. Permetherin also helps a lot.
- cheers
By Mike Morin
From: On the Road
Mar 31, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This route is the perfect moderate finish to the first 3 pitches. Well done, had a blast on it today. A 4 star pitch for sure.
By Adam Ingram
From: Golden, CO
Apr 7, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I enjoyed the climb, but didn't think any of the moves were of 5.8 difficulty. Overall, the route felt like mostly 5.6 with a few 5.7 moves mixed in. Great easy/moderate multi-pitch sport route. The view from the top is awesome; I loved hanging out at the very top of the crag. The last 10-15 feet of the last pitch was really fun (the dihedral crack looking thing just to the right of the last few moves looks way more fun though), but this route is all about the first pitch (which is technically the first 2 pitches)
By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Apr 7, 2010

Adam, the dihederal could be climbed on gear. My original idea was to go into the dihederal, but upon closer inspection, I didn't want to finish the route that way because of some really nasty blocks at the top of the dihederal. I agree that the pitch is soft for 5.8, but I think the overall effort of the route is 5.8 when you take into account the first 2 pitches of SG. Thanks for the feed back!
-cheers
By Dr. Ellis D. Funnythoughts
From: Evergreen, Co
Apr 10, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Super fun route!! Really good warm up for the day. The ticks suck ass though. I would seriously consider wading the creek to avoid those bloodsucking assholes. Definitely combine first two pitches if you can cause the hanging belay isn't comfortable. Keep a heads up for loose rocks, too!
By Tom R
From: Denver, CO
Apr 11, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I think this is going to see a lot of traffic. A small line formed today.
By ChrisG
From: Westminster
Apr 12, 2010

Totally mellow route, doable in approach shoes. Small line equals 6 dudes. Yeah gonna be lots a traffic on this one. This route gets a high "redneck yellin' moon factor". A yeeeehhhaaaawww and two white loaves for the gapers drivin' by. Oh, an' not to mention the old man pullin' over to take a piss, not even noticing us there. Hah!
By Brett Bauer
Apr 14, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Wade, while you can we did and I still got 2 ticks could only imagine how many on the hike?

With a 70m rope, it was 3 pitches.

We did pitch 1 then pitch 2 past the upper belay 3 bolts up to what might be the intermittent rappel anchor? Then up to the top! (make sure you climb the last vert directly in line with the bolts for the spice (5.8?) of the route ...left totally down grades it but wouldn't take away from the climb any!

Awesome route...just good fun climbing with an alpine feel!
By Andrew Bradberry
From: Golden, CO
Apr 16, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Thanks for the route, Monty! This one is sure to be a CCC classic. It's cleaning up nicely, all the holds I used were good. Are you bolting those routes across the dihedral (climber's right of Solid Gold)? Those look pretty stout!
By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Apr 16, 2010

Thanks for the kind words. This route took all most no cleaning at all, not typical in CCC. The routes to the right of Solid Gold are First Spun Gold 12a/b and the other route is a closed project in progress by another CCC local, please respect the developer and treat it as if it's not there. I have put in 3 other routes on the far left side of Creekside, which I like to call the Binge Side. Those routes vary from 5.9-5.12 and is a wonderful spot in the canyon. See you out there!
By AOSR
From: Wherever we park!
Apr 19, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I have red tagged my project to avoid confusion. Thanks for respecting it and any gear I may leave on it till it goes clean!
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 19, 2010
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

Another perspective of Playin' Hooky on Creekside, as seen from the other side of the canyon:
Creekside from across the canyon (taken March '06)...
Creekside from across the canyon (taken March '06). Routes Big Bro Watchin' and Solid Gold.
By mikejohnson1
From: Essex Junction, VT
May 4, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I thought the first pitch was solid 5.8, but everything after that is in the 5.5-5.7 range. Also, be really careful at the start of the 4th pitch. There is a large (3ftX3ft) block that is really loose (my partner almost pulled it down without knowing). There is a small x on it, but if you have some chalk, you should put a big x on it. Other than that, the rock is all pretty good quality, the belay ledges could sleep 6, and the exposure is great. The ticks suck. You can easily avoid the hanging belay on the top of the first pitch by having your second lower you to the nice big huge ledge. Either don't fall off, or clip a long sling into the bolt just below the ledge. This worked really well.
By Doug Redosh
May 20, 2010

Would clarify. It really climbs the first 2 1/2 pitches of Solid Gold. P3: climb up and left following bolts to the grassy ledge and a 2 bolt anchor - 50 feet.
By Dave Clark 5.10
From: Golden, CO
May 23, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Fun route, and nice addition/option to Solid Gold. Untick yourself before and after climbing.

As others have suggested, I recommend linking the first two pitches on Solid Gold to make one 190-ft pitch. Avoids the first hanging belay and the second belay ledge is spacious. Can also link the 40-ft portion of Solid Gold P3 with the first 40 ft of Playing Hooky, and belay from the nice ledge at the Rap station 100 ft below the top of PH. Makes the climb three pitches: 190', 80', 100'. None of it is tiring, and mostly 5.7 except one 5.9- move on SG P1 and maybe an optional 10a move right above SG second belay ledge (start of P3) if you go straight up instead of heading left.
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
May 24, 2010
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

Regarding the hanging belay at the end of P1 (proper) of Solid Gold.

Edit:
One trick I have done is to belay with gear above the last bolt of that pitch in a nice ledge pod. Plenty of options for bomber pro, though a couple aliens should suffice and can use the last bolt as upward pull. You can slingshot off the rap anchors if you want to, but have to downclimb back to the pod. Supercomfy!

Richard originally set up SG to be climbed with a 60m. If the belay/rap station were to be moved, would be a bit too short on the P2 rap with a 60m, but could make it with a 70m.
By AOSR
From: Wherever we park!
Jul 19, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

That large, dangerous block is no longer. Who sent it? Did it hit the road at all? Several times I thought about it, but had no one on the road to do clean up....
By JLSmith526
Jul 27, 2010

Got most of the way through the first pitch on lead. Was ill prepared with shoes that didn't allow for my feet to swell at all (too much gym climbing). Very well protected, and a lot of fun.

On my to do list for the next time we're in Colorado.

The wading the creek to get there is definitely not for the summer. One of our party tried to wade the river back (in July), ended up getting an offer from a rafting boat to get a ride across, the water was too high and too fast.
By Nicole G
From: Oceanside, CA
Aug 7, 2010

Fun climb! Be careful of loose fist-sized rocks though. Also, it's very hard to hear on the first two pitches and you'll lose sight of your partner, so be sure to work out your non-verbal (i.e., rope-tugging commands) before you start climbing.
By Bob Robinson
From: Lone Tree, Colorado
Aug 19, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Awesome job, Monty! This route is uber fun. Great movement, mellow climbing, sweet belay ledges, and a thoughtful finish on a really cool headwall. Perfectly protected without feeling over-bolted. Classic.
By sstrauss
From: Denver
Sep 27, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Good fun on a Sunday morning.
Just a side note: When moving off the first anchor, be careful heading right in the gully. Saw a lot of chalk in there on the loose rocks. If you're unsure of going straight up off the anchors, head to your left a little. It's kind of dirty but much more solid and keeps the climbing easy.

Thanks for putting the route together.
By Vidal
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 31, 2010

This was an awesome climb and my first multi-pitch sport lead. However, we were faced with the ultimate buzz-kill: The backpacks (NICE backpacks, full of useful-to-us, sort of valuable stuff) we left at the base of the climb were stolen. There was another group on-route today, but we very much doubt it was them (one of the guys claimed to know the guy who bolted the route!). Thinking it was some of the rest stop looky-loos. Be careful and hide your packs if you are going to leave them!!!

If the other dudes who were climbing today are out there (Halloween Sunday, 2010), did you lose your packs as well (not indirectly pointing fingers, mostly looking to sympathize)?
By Drew Allan
From: Denver/Aspen
Nov 1, 2010

Vidal,

I am so sorry to hear that happened to you. When we left, your packs and shoes were right at the base of the climb. A family was in the parking area below the climb but I doubt it was them. There were some shady dudes around the cars but that is near Cat Slab as you know. We checked you out with binocs from the car but didn't drive back to the base. Being older guys with more than most, we don't have any need to steal other peoples gear. It really sucks to hear the scumbags continue to make the canyon unsafe for climbers and their equipment.

By Vidal
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 1, 2010

Drew-

Thanks for your response. Like I said, we never suspected you and your partner as the culprits. We were just hoping they didn't make off with your gear as well. All in all, it was still a great day and neither of us lost much of value. Most frustrating is that everything we lost was well-used, smelly, and climber specific (guidebook=$40, but useless to non-climbers), so it probably just made its way straight into the trash once its value was realized. Hopefully others can heed the warning and keep their stuff well-hidden and safe!
By Phill T
Apr 6, 2011

Great route, still tons of ticks on the approach. We waded the stream to not have to deal with them so much on the way out. Very doable as of 4/5/11, knee deep, although the current was pretty strong in some places.

Does anyone know what the dihedral system just to the left of the last pitch goes at? There was a party coming down that had just finished, looks fun with a modest rack.
By Bruno D
From: Boulder, CO
May 16, 2011

Anybody know about how many draws you need to combine the first two pitches?
By P.K.
May 26, 2011

I want to say 16 or 17 to combine the first two pitches.
By Hoag
From: Littleton, CO
Jun 11, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Glad I finally made it over to Creek Side to climb this. It's a fun route. Mostly 5.6 with some 5.8/5.9- moves. The best pitch is definitely the last one because of the exposure. You've got a beautiful bird's-eye view of the creek and all the kayaks and rafts floating by.

If you're feeling adventurous and want to give Solid Gold a shot, you can get to the rap line from the top of Playin' Hooky and get any gear you have to leave.
By Will Sharp
From: Breck, CO
Jul 24, 2011
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

A quick comment on access to this line. I found MP and the guidebook to be a bit vague on this point - and observed others being confused. You do not use the Tyrolean traverse that reaches across to Creekside. Park close to Tunnel 5, cross the river via the bridge at the entrance to the tunnel, jump the jersey barrier and look for the trail which leads upstream, fairly close to the water. The trail is apparent and reasonably well marked.
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 24, 2011
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

Playin' Hooky is not in the guidebook. Since it starts with Solid Gold, those approach details are on p.162. Hope that helps.
By Jared Hostetter
Oct 6, 2011

If you put the first two pitches together and want a draw for every bolt, you will need 19 draws for the bolts plus something for the anchors. This does include putting one draw on the first anchor station. I was able to fairly easily back clean a couple along the way since we only had 18 with us. The bolting is great; however, it is much more run out than other 5.8 or 5.9s in the canyon. This route is really fun, thanks for the hard work.
By Harald Harb
From: Dumont
Oct 28, 2011

If anyone was on this climb this weekend and is missing an essential part of their climbing gear, please call or e-mail or message me.
By Harry Dorcy
From: Denver, CO
Jan 15, 2012

I notice that there are no comments earlier than March. Is Creekside climbable in January and February? New to the Creek, so I'm not quite sure about weather this time of year.
By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Jan 15, 2012

The Playing Hooky and Solid Gold area get some sun in the morning in the winter, so it's definitely possible this time of year. The approach may not be too fun though.
By BameR
From: golden, co
Mar 6, 2012

Climbed yesterday afternoon (3/5/12). Great moderate route, great warm up for the rest of creek side. Started in the sun, climbed in the shade, rappelled in the windy cold shadows.

On the second belay ledge (top of pitch two - there are 2 sets of anchors 1 hanging and 1 at the bench/ledge), there are lots of loose baseball to grapefruit-sized and some larger loose rocks. I piled them into a pile away from where the rope will drag them down when you pull it for a rappel. In hindsight, I should have thrown them into the creek, sorry all.

Please be aware of these rocks when rappelling because your rope could drag off quite the rock storm. Or toss them into the creek if your the only ones up there. Again, I made the pile, got onto rappel, and about 20 feet down said "shit, I should have launched them all down to the river."

Be safe, this is a great 1st exposure climb... you're up there but not out there... great for macho man and his lady. If you want exposure, climb Creekafixion (5.11). The traverse looked scary as hell.
By Grant Gerhard
From: Denver, CO
Mar 27, 2012
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

Ticks are out in full force! Found a record setting 8 on me and my partner.
By Erik Hatlestad
May 6, 2012

Does anybody have a picture of the view from the top of Playing Hooky? I am working on a self reflection piece for my Senior Project in high school, and the 2 times I have climbed this I have not taken a picture. Can't get up today to take one before the canyon closes.

Thanks MPs!
By Mike Morin
From: On the Road
May 7, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Here's one.


Playin' Hooky.
Playin' Hooky.
By TheHut
Oct 14, 2012

Hello all - within the last week a blue 60L dry bag walked away from the bowl behind (East) of the Gold Wall. I had stashed it over the week, as it contained ropes and equipment for the highlines in that area. I'm staying optimistic that this is someone's mis-applied good intentions. If you've got any info on this please contact me at scottthehut@yahoo.com. Thank you!
By George Bracksieck
Mar 16, 2013

I was just prompted to shed some history on this route. I climbed the first three pitches in 1973, placing primitive hammerless pro and belayed by Charly Marchand. I was fiddling with my first gear placement when Layton Kor showed up with a partner and started up the black slab just to our left. Layton whacked in a pin in seconds and disappeared above. His partner moved up and whacked it out in seconds and disappeared as I was still fiddling. We finished our climb up the huge, right-facing dihedral left of the bolted fourth pitch of PH, feeling exposure comparable to that found on Eldo's Redgarden Wall. At the time, I thought our route (which someone else might have climbed earlier) was 5.7. We walked off to the east. The recently placed bolts don't always follow exactly where we climbed, but are never far away. I confirmed that last June, when rapping Solid Gold, after doing Big Bro.

In 1978, I led Anne Leibold up the same black slab that I saw Layton climb, placing only nuts and finishing with the same huge dihedral. We walked off.
By Chris Bartram
From: Westminster, CO
May 12, 2013

Hey, just a quick question, I'm trying to get out on the route tomorrow and just wanted to double check gear requirements before I get on. First do I need any trad gear for the climb, and second I only need one 60m rope to get down?
By Robbie Flick
From: Denver, CO
May 19, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

An outstanding route for the grade! No trad gear needed.

Watch all the loose stuff on the grassy ledge at the end of p2 (or a mega-long p1).
By Charlie F.
Jul 8, 2013

Hi, I have a quick question about the route: Is there a way to top out and walk off to avoid rappelling?
Thanks,
Charlie
By Abram Herman
From: Golden, CO
Jul 8, 2013

To summarize:

-Yes, you can get down with a 60m. Pay attention to what he says about the anchor vs. rappel locations in the description, or just use common sense!

-No, you don't need any trad gear.

-Super fun for a little easy Clear Creek sport! Recommended for a fun outing, or to scout the sick looking routes on the headwall to your left and get psyched on a new project.
By AOSR
From: Wherever we park!
Jul 20, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Charlie F: Yes, it is possible, but I would not recommend it over rappelling at this specific area.
By Ben D.
From: Colorado
Sep 28, 2013

Found a jacket at the base area of "Playin' Hooky" this evening (9/28/2013). If it's yours, please email me at smithylowe@hotmail.com with full description and I'll be happy to return it to you!

Regarding the route, an absolutely fun route worth doing. One of the few moderate, multi-pitches in CCC, perfect for anyone learning multi-pitch!
By William Thiry
From: Lakewood, CO
Oct 12, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

The 5.8 rating may be misleading to some because the 1st pitch of Solid Gold, which must be climbed to get to Playin' Hooky, is 5.9+. There are two cruxes on that pitch. The first, at the 3rd bolt, can be avoided by climbing 5 feet to the left. The second crux, ten feet higher, can also be avoided to the left, but doing so isn't much easier nor recommended.

This is a terrific climb. Just note that if you are new to the route and relatively inexperienced at leading then you may find the very first pitch will offer you some exciting crux sections. Luckily they are well-protected.
By Chick on Crack
From: Golden, CO
Mar 27, 2014

Abram, you crack me up. I'm stoked to climb this with B-Rad. Next stop, Eldo!
By Clay Hansen
Apr 12, 2014

Just a heads up to whoever climbs this next, the anchor on top of the last pitch has a loose hanger. The nut on the right hanger is only hand tight. The expansion bolt still feels solid, but the hanger is loose and the nut needs to be tightened.
By MBX5
From: Arvada
May 4, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Ticks are out!
By KansasBoarder
Aug 29, 2014

Super fun introduction to Clear Creek Canyon. As a novice climber, I found the cruxes on pitch one fair, requiring but a few thoughtful moves. Pretty sweet final step to the top out. And yes, I did find ticks crawling on my feet during the walk back to the car.
By Jeff Hofheins 1
From: Logan, Utah
Sep 4, 2014

There is a new route (?) immediately left of Playin' Hooky, to the right of Black Gold. Not sure what it was rated. The roof was well-protected, but it was a little difficult to pull if you can't reach very far. I'd have given it a 5.9 maybe? Most of it was easy except the roof.
By Ted Peterson
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 14, 2014

Apparently the route left of Playin' Hooky and right of Black Gold is some kind of 9. We met Alan Prehmus there today who bolted it. It looks like he is pretty active on MP, so I'm sure you will hear more about it (and another pitch he just wrapped up today).