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BETA PHOTO: Playground 5.5
A 5-bolt, easy route worth doing only if you've done everything else on the Red Slab and/or feel like getting away from the crowd.
Easy climbing on mossy, rough quartzite. The rock does have some interesting-looking pockets down low that you don't see elsewhere in the Rock Canyon quartzite.
Your rope may end up with a green tinge from dragging through the dry moss.
Rappel rather than lower due to the anchor.
The route lies uphill from and to the south of the Red Slab proper. To get there, go to the right side of the Red Slab and then head west a bit. A steep slot will appear on your left. Head up the slot (south) and at the top of the slot bear left towards the wall. The route starts in a sort of hollow at the base of the wall (looks like some giant used a spoon and took a chunk out).
5 bolts to a weird anchor: two bolts and hangers, two swaged steel cables in a triangle supporting two hollow aluminum rap rings (you definitely don't want to lower from those).
BETA PHOTO: The approach to the outlying routes associated wit...
|By Tristan Higbee|
May 12, 2008
I really like this climb for some reason... Yeah, there's a lot of moss and the climbing is really easy on big holds. But I think, actually, that the moss kind of gives more character to this climb. There are some neat holds, especially the big huecos down low. Not something you usually see on quartzite.
I did this climb several years ago and then soloed it last Thanksgiving Day. That was a cold one. That same day I also started cleaning a nice line to the left of this route, but gave up due to the enormous amount of brushing, blasting, scrubbing, and cleaning involved. SO much moss. The rock there was really nice, though. I soloed it on toprope and it was probably 5.6ish. I think another couple days of cleaning would be enough...
|By Darren Knezek|
May 12, 2009
Add Mark Hadnot in the FA along with Chris.
From: Cedar Hills
Jun 25, 2012
I climbed this route this morning and it was still real mossy. Easy climb though! Also what is the route to the right about 15 feet? It seemed like a 5.6-7, 5 bolts to a double anchor. It was clean and a fun climb.
The approach sucked!
|By Danny Cardoza|
From: Payson, UT
Apr 26, 2013
Great climb! If there are tons of people on Red Slab and you don't want to venture further up the canyon for an easier climb, this is definitely for you. If you don't mind the crazy steep approach, that is. We avoided going back down the "slot" by veering left (when going north) around the large rock feature and following some deer trails to the alternate approach to the Ed and Terry wall. The slot is super steep and washed out, and if you're carrying any amount of gear is difficult to manage. Going around is probably a safer bet.