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Play Misty 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Nigel Shepperd and Bill Wayman
Page Views: 838
Submitted By: Ladd Raine on Apr 12, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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BETA PHOTO: Play Misty is the crack in the center, Play Mate i...

Description 

This route is notoriously hard to protect, not because there are no placements but because it is very hard to fight the barn-door and see the placements.

If it is within your ethics...place protection from the ground. Crux lies about 8 feet above ledge (blue Alien to protect crux in small slot out left (invisible)).

After crux place #1-#2 in the obvious hand sized crack and mantle the mini ledge follow the super crack system to the top. Tree anchor.


Location 

This route lies driectly right of Pine tree Eliminate. Belay from below a VW-beatle-sized boulder.


Protection 

See above



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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 24, 2012
By KCP
From: Eldorado Springs, CO
Oct 7, 2007
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

I remember this route. One of Jimmy Dunn's. I don't remember it being PG13. I thought it was pretty well protected, and had a pin at the crux.

By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Nov 5, 2007

There is no pin at the crux now, just a blue alien placement in the old pin scar, but you can't see it and there is definitly a bad spot where the placement is not good, hence the PG13 because your gear coule be bad and you wouldn't have a clue.

Also the upper section is so lichen covered and unprotectable, a fall from up there would be disasterous.

By KCP
From: Eldorado Springs, CO
Nov 9, 2007
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Maybe someone should replace the missing pin with another pin.

By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Nov 9, 2007

It might have been considered at some point by the crew up in North Conway, althought since it hasn't so far and the route is so infrequently climbed I don't see that happening.
Personally I like that this climb is so commiting because of that placement, I like it without a pin and I won't be adding a pin there.

By john strand
From: southern colo
Jun 17, 2008

Sure this was one of James' favorite's but he did not do the ffa. Nigel Shepperd and Bill Wayman from the UK were pointed at the route by Ed Webster in 78.
agreed though ,much more committing w/o the pin

john

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jun 15, 2010
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

i got my ass handed to me on this today.... nothing epic other than my failure haha... but after reading the description i find my self more lost than ever.... i saw no hand crack for a #1 or #2, i was able to place 4 or 5 pieces small (cams and nuts) before bailing and cleaning down the climb... i was climbing the pods in the corner off the ledge am i supossed to be elsewhere where this description would make sense to me? also one of the well chalked pods i used was all crumbling and falling apart... bummer, i was looking forward to this route... any idea what gives ???

By john strand
From: southern colo
Jun 16, 2010

Lee, It must just be me. But i would not waste my time on this route, I have never thought it was any good.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jun 16, 2010
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

haha thanks john, i had that feeling too... but now i just want to understand it...

By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Jun 21, 2010
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13

Burlap and I got on this yestersday, classic route. We climbed the crux as a technical crack route, didn't see any blind placements or trickery. I laced up the bottom and fell on a bunch on the gear so it all seemed pretty good. The exit was tough, then another 50+ feet of tricky 9+/10- climbing. Needs a redpoint from me!

By burlap submariner
Jun 21, 2010

this discription needs a rehab. No pin is fixed and there doesnt need to be a new one, gear is excellent albiet small and akward to place. The 5.10 crack nearing the top after the crux has no lichen on it and is very clean and well protected, I used nothing larger than a .75 and was very well protected the entire time. Excellent route, varied climbing with a "pumped out of your mind from the crux" tricky, crescendo finish.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jun 9, 2012
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

got shut down on my first attempt last year... today it went...

good climbing... protecting was strenuous (there is currently a stuck nut on it though)... the top section was a little dirty but wasnt a big problem...

By chris magness
Jun 24, 2012
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

The description for this route is somewhat misleading. Play Misty is a finger crack and thus protects mostly with smaller gear. The crack widens after the crux and will accept some wider gear (#1 or so) and the upper crack will also accept up to a .75.

The only portion of the climb that is a little spicey is the top of the second tier where the crack becomes flared, otherwise IF you can hang on to place the gear, the protection is quite good. Also, Play Misty is stiff for the grade. It makes nearby Airation feel like nursery school climbing.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jun 24, 2012
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

i agree chris, on pretty much all of your points... i climbed The prow to get the confidence for this one haha...
And i dont know what ladd meant by placing your gear from the ground? if i could do that id do it on all the routes i climb haha... i found the crux moves and crux gear placement to be 10+ feet off that 1st ledge...