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Platypus Rock Climbing
Routes in Platypus
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Al Hussein S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Embryo TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Howling Iguana TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Jellyfish S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Moss Man S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Plat-A-Pussy S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Puking Iquana TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rat-A-Puss S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Southwest Arete T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Elevation: | 3,034 ft |
| GPS: |
37.22678, -122.10071 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 19,611 total · 114/month |
| Shared By: | Daniel Trugman on Feb 28, 2010 · Updates |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am.
Details
Trails close at sunset. Give yourself enough time to be back at your vehicle (or campsite if you're staying at one) before dark, or the rangers will fine you.
Always visit the Castle Rock State Park website parks.ca.gov/?page_id=538 for fairly current official information.
Always visit the Castle Rock State Park website parks.ca.gov/?page_id=538 for fairly current official information.
Description
A forty-foot sandstone tower with a handful of fun climbs, mostly in the 5.10 range. Climbs are typically slabby and technical and fairly sustained. No gear is needed on any of them, just quickdraws.
The Platypus consists of three distinct faces, each with bolted routes on them. The South Face is the closest to the Chew Tooth, but is hidden in a gulley. You will likely see come across the West Face first.
Routes, from right to left, heading clockwise around the Platypus:
West Face (the most prominent and lowest angle face)
-- Moss Man, 5.10a, 3 bolts
-- Plat-A-Pussy, 5.10a, 3 bolts
North Face (around the corner, clockwise, from the West face)
-- Jelly Fish, 5.11b, 4 bolts (I didn't get to try this one)
-- Al Hussein, 5.10d, 3 bolts
South Face (around the corner, clockwise, from North face, in the gulley)
-- Rat-A-Puss, 5.10a, 3 bolts
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NOTE: while rap rings have been added to more anchors recently they may not be present on all of them.
The Platypus consists of three distinct faces, each with bolted routes on them. The South Face is the closest to the Chew Tooth, but is hidden in a gulley. You will likely see come across the West Face first.
Routes, from right to left, heading clockwise around the Platypus:
West Face (the most prominent and lowest angle face)
-- Moss Man, 5.10a, 3 bolts
-- Plat-A-Pussy, 5.10a, 3 bolts
North Face (around the corner, clockwise, from the West face)
-- Jelly Fish, 5.11b, 4 bolts (I didn't get to try this one)
-- Al Hussein, 5.10d, 3 bolts
South Face (around the corner, clockwise, from North face, in the gulley)
-- Rat-A-Puss, 5.10a, 3 bolts
-------
NOTE: while rap rings have been added to more anchors recently they may not be present on all of them.
Getting There
Approach as for the Chew Tooth
-- Follow Saratoga Gap trail from the main parking lot for < 5 mins. Take a left at the sign for Castle Rock, and follow the obvious trail as it heads uphill. After a few minutes you will reach a small sign that says "trail ahead" with a arrow pointing left. You want to go RIGHT. Follow this fainter trail into a clearing, and continue right past a trail that branches off to the left. You will soon see the top of the Chew Tooth.
From the top of the Chew Tooth, head uphill on a faint trail. Crest the hill and walk about 100 feet. Platypus will be on your right if you look sharp. If you reach Shady Rock at its obvious roofy climbs, you've gone to far.
Total approach time: 10-15 minutes.
-- Follow Saratoga Gap trail from the main parking lot for < 5 mins. Take a left at the sign for Castle Rock, and follow the obvious trail as it heads uphill. After a few minutes you will reach a small sign that says "trail ahead" with a arrow pointing left. You want to go RIGHT. Follow this fainter trail into a clearing, and continue right past a trail that branches off to the left. You will soon see the top of the Chew Tooth.
From the top of the Chew Tooth, head uphill on a faint trail. Crest the hill and walk about 100 feet. Platypus will be on your right if you look sharp. If you reach Shady Rock at its obvious roofy climbs, you've gone to far.
Total approach time: 10-15 minutes.
Classic Climbing Routes at Platypus
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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