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Platte Magic 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: John McMullen and Marc Hirt (per Hubbel's white book)
Season: spring through fall (north facing)
Page Views: 444
Submitted By: slim on Jul 21, 2010  with updates from rob bauer and 1 more

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Rob at the 1st bolt, 25ft.

Description 

Yet another terrific route on a great wall. This route offers very nice climbing that flirts with a black water streak that has exquisite rock.

This route starts just behind the large evergreen tree. It is the 5th bolted route from the left, and the 6th route from the left if you include the 'Way Jingus' toprope.

Begin with relatively easy slabbing to the first bolt. Some fun sidepull flakes get you up to the 2nd and third bolts. Kind of cruxy at the 3rd bolt and eases off to sustained climbing in the 9'ish range until the angle eases off to 7'ish for the last 30 feet.

I really enjoyed wandering back and forth across the waterstreak and comparing the attributes of the water polished rock versus the rock to the sides.


Location 

Towards the bottom of the rock gully, this route starts just behind the large evergreen tree. It is the 5th bolted route from the left, and the 6th route from the left if you include the 'Way Jingus' toprope.


Protection 

6 bolts, but I am struggling to remember if they were modern bolts or buttonheads/Stardryves. The bolts were well-placed to protect the harder climbing, but still this was not remotely a sport climb. The climb finishes on a ledge where you can go left or right to bolted anchors (both with old bolts that need new webbing and rings).

Per rob bauer: all 6 bolts and the anchors have been upgraded be the ASCA (stamped on some hangers).



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Rob.
Rob.
All 6 bolts can be seen here, then don't slip for the next 80 feet!
BETA PHOTO: All 6 bolts can be seen here, then don't slip for ...
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By rob bauer
From: Golden, CO
Jun 18, 2014

All the bolts have been replaced. Thank you, ASCA!