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Platinum Stethoscope
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 1.5 from 10
votes
Routes in The Pear
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Devil's Lake Revisited T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Dextrous Digits T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Fat-Bottomed Groove T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Finger Tripping T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R |
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Gina's Surprise T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X |
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Good Timing T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Heavenly Journey T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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Jam on It T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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La Chaim T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Magical Chrome Plated Semi-Automatic Enema Syringe T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Neko's Route T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Northern Lights T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Pit of the Pear, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Platinum Stethoscope T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Right Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Root of All Evil T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Salud T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sibling Rivalry T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Slippage T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Sloper Ramp V8 7B |
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Sweet Sabrina T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Thorazine T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Whole Thing T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Bob Bradley and Paul Mayrose |
| Page Views: | 1,243 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Jim McGuire on Dec 31, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Closures lifted 7/28/23
Details
Per Brent Frazier: the raptor closures have been lifted in the Lumpy Ridge and Loch Vale Areas ( nps.gov/romo/raptor-closure…)
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Description
There is a big blocky ledge with a tree growing on it at the left edge of the face. This route goes up the right facing dihedral above this ledge.
Get up onto the ledge by any one of numerous ways. Go up the dihedral to a belay below an overhang, 5.5. The second pitch goes through the overhang to the left and finishes up the dihedral above. It is possible to go around the right side of the overhang and up to A Pig with Earrings 5.6 R or around the overhang and back left into the dihedral and finish, 5.5. Traverse off left or finish on Magic Chrome Plated . . .
If one were so inclined, a nice 4 pitch 5.5 climb may be had by using the right side overhang option mentioned above then the next two pitches of Magic Chrome . . . and then traverse off to the left at the upper headwall and into the deep cleft behind the Pear. Go right, east through the cleft and down the east side descent.
Get up onto the ledge by any one of numerous ways. Go up the dihedral to a belay below an overhang, 5.5. The second pitch goes through the overhang to the left and finishes up the dihedral above. It is possible to go around the right side of the overhang and up to A Pig with Earrings 5.6 R or around the overhang and back left into the dihedral and finish, 5.5. Traverse off left or finish on Magic Chrome Plated . . .
If one were so inclined, a nice 4 pitch 5.5 climb may be had by using the right side overhang option mentioned above then the next two pitches of Magic Chrome . . . and then traverse off to the left at the upper headwall and into the deep cleft behind the Pear. Go right, east through the cleft and down the east side descent.
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