The Plasticine section is the first part of the main (northern) wall, which is the first cliff you see. The climbing offers a mix of trad and sport and is good quality limestone. In the winter, later hours of the afternoon bring more shade, but since the reserve closes at 4PM, it isn't so much of an issue. The climbs are all single pitch, and a sport rack will be all you need to enjoy this fantastic piece of rock. Since this is the first cliff, and closest to the main trail, you will find yourself surrounded by many non climbers. However, they will likely keep their distance, as you have to cross a small creek to get to the base of the cliff. Nearly all routes have bolted anchors at the top with rappel rings.
From the parking lot, follow the blue marked trail until you see a sign on the right which says "Climbing Permitted in this Area." Cross the creek, and set up shop.
Browse More Classics in Plasticine
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Plasticine:
Prologue 5.10b Sport, 1 pitch, 55 feet
Featured Route For Plasticine
Prologue 5.10b International : Asia : ... : Plasticine
After you cross the creek to get to the base of the climb, look at the bolt line furthest to your right, and gaze up at the climb. It looks pretty easy, and for the first part it is. The first bolt is a little run out, but chances are, if you're attempting a 6a (French scale) climb, it will be a piece of cake. The climb follows the bolts slightly right of the crack and then straight up. Don't let the first part of the climb fool you. After the ledge, the climbing becomes worthy of the grade...[more] Browse More Classics in International