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Planet Y 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 918
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (34)
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Brenda on "Planet Y"

Description 

This route is on the west face and climbs a crack to face past a bolt that leads directly to the rap anchors for the formation.

Climb the heavily featured crack until it dies out, where a combination of sidepulls and grainy edges gains a bolt which protects a long move to a visibly flexing flake the size of a hardcover book...gingerly pull down and not out on the flake and make the final moves to the anchors.

A fun climb with some intricate movement that's easily toproped from the anchors if you don't feel like leading it. Worth doing if only to witness firsthand the amazing elasticity of the local quartz monzonite as evidenced by the fragile, flexing flake. One star out of five.

Protection 

Gear to 3", bolt (5/16"), bolted anchor/rap (3/8")


Photos of Planet Y Slideshow Add Photo
Midway up on Planet Y.
Midway up on Planet Y.
Jessy Kronenberg on Planet Y
Jessy Kronenberg on Planet Y
Near the crux(10a?)on "Planet Y". <br />I found I had to make an awkward step up and long reach to clip the( very welcome)bolt.
Near the crux(10a?)on "Planet Y".
I found I had to...

Comments on Planet Y Add Comment
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By Randy
Feb 14, 2005
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

FA: Mark Powell & Frank deSuassure. c1967 [FA info (c) 2005 by Randy Vogel]
By C Miller
Administrator
Feb 14, 2005

Randy - Was the FA done with or without a bolt? It would be a fairly bold lead without one.
By Randy
Feb 15, 2005
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Apparently, they climbed the route to near the top, then exited left? and up the arete (avoiding the crux section where the bolt is currently). So, the current route is really a direct finish.
By Taryn
From: San Diego, CA
Sep 24, 2007

I cannot figure out how this is a 5.10a. It seemed much easier. The start and crack are juggy, and the friction moves at the top were straight forward.
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 4, 2009
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Good route, on par with Planet X in quality and definitely worth doing if in the area.
By Pete eye
From: Fort Collins, CO
Dec 21, 2009

5.7/8 climbing to the bolt, but the moves to and just over the bolt are 10a. Slightly easier by staying to the left at the bolt/crux(5.9)
By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Oct 16, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Pretty straightforward start and good pro as needed to "almost" get to the bolt. Take something like a #4 RP or smallish to medium stopper to protect the "clipping" move to the bolt. Flexy hold seemed pretty solid and the moves are not that bad to get to the anchor. Pretty good since you are there already with a rap or TR ready to go after doing Planet X.
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Dec 11, 2011

I thought this was easier than Planet X.