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The Warlock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Dragon's Back T 
Flying Warlocks T 
Ghostbumps T,S 
Howling, The T,S 
Imaginary Voyage T 
Planet Waves T 
Romantic Warrior T 
Sarcophagus, The T 
Sea of Tranquility T 
South Face T 
Spell, The T 
Titanic, The T 
Unknown T,S 

Planet Waves 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 300', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Lechlinski, Gingery, et al... 1978?
Season: Late spring until early fall
Page Views: 1,560
Submitted By: Levy on Jun 14, 2009

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Tony on the stemming corner of Planet Waves, 5.11c...

Description 

Lieback, stem & face climb up the attractive left facing, left arching corner. Where the arch gets thin & disappears, step left to a bolted belay. The infrequently done 2nd pitch, ascends past 1 bolt(5.10+) to a huge runout to easier climbing, to join the S Crack or South Face route which can be followed to the top.

Location 

On the east face of the Warlock, out along the ledge left 60 feet from Imaginary Voyage.

Protection 

Lots of small wireds, tech cams & such to 2 1/2 inches. The bolts on this belay should be modernized, currently it is 2 x 1/4" bolts from the 1970's


Photos of Planet Waves Slideshow Add Photo
Planet Waves, 5.11    A masterpiece of stemming & liebacking on the East face of the Warlock.
Planet Waves, 5.11 A masterpiece of stemming & ...
Planet Waves, 5.11    A masterpiece of stemming & liebacking on the East face of the Warlock
Planet Waves, 5.11 A masterpiece of stemming & ...
Planet Waves goes up the left facing corner and Imaginary Voyage goes up the straight up flare.
BETA PHOTO: Planet Waves goes up the left facing corner and Im...

Comments on Planet Waves Add Comment
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By Kris Solem
From: Monrovia, CA
Jul 14, 2011

The anchor bolts at the top of P1 and the protection bolts on P2 are now upgraded to stainless 5 piece powers. The lead bolts are 3/8" x 3" and the anchor is one 3/8" and one 1/2". Have fun!!

Also Shadows in the Rain, the face climb to the right of Imaginary Voyage has new bolts.

Special thanks to Levy, without whose hard work this would not have happenned. And to Greg Barnes and the ASCA for the materials.