This is another stellar climb by the amazing Greg Collins. Hats off to Greg. This is right up there with Red Nations as being a great, great climb. The first pitch starts just to the right of the bottom of the 4th class crack going up to the Tree Route. Class 4 slab (short pitch) to a ledge with a little tree on it. The next pitch is 5.4 I suppose and goes to the two bolt anchor below and sltly left of the left facing dihedral above. The third pitch starts with the crux, several thin 11a face moves to the bottom of the dihedral. A BD microcam (#0 or #1) is handy when you get to the roof under the corner. Proceed up the dihedral, using a lot of runners to minimize rope drag (5.7/5.8). A second crux is near the top of this corner, just before you reach the bolt. I found a #0 tricam and a medium/small HB nut helped a lot here to protect the moves to the bolt. Clip the bolt and proceed up outrageously exposed and fun crimping to the top of the dihedral, where you flip around onto the outside edge on a couple of incut crimps. Proceed into a shallow bowl and clip the bolt with a sigh of relief. Two more 5.9 or 9+ bulges (bolts) lead to the two bolt belay. The fourth pitch takes a cool head, as it is very led out with scarce protection. It generally goes straight up, but wind a round a lot to find the most feasible way.
This route is identified by the prominent left facing dhihedral about 300 ft. up, on the wall right of the Tree Route. Scramble up to the beginning of the class 4 crack leading up to the Tree Route and begin the climb on a class 4 slab leading to a ledge with a little tree on it (the first belay). From there, up to the bottom of the dihedral. Descend by the Cowboy Route or rappel Red Nations.
Rack of stoppers, set of Camelots to #3, RPs or (I found) a few small-medium HB nuts, set of tricams, a #0 and a #1 BD microcams are nice to have. Take 6-8 single length runners or so, and clips.
|By Erik Gearhart|
From: Seattle, WA
Aug 19, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Agree with the beta on the micro nuts on the dihedral at the top. And I'm still mad about Greg Collins sandbagging me into guiding a student up this! PS--the moves around the bolt before moving into the dihedral were quite difficult--way harder than the 10- rating he claimed at the time. Ahh, Greg!