Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Upper Security Risk
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
"S" Buttress, The T 
Cold Shot S 
Cracking the Code S 
Crash Test Blondes S 
Get Smart T 
Hot Flyer S 
Hot Wire S 
Juice, The S 
Just A Little Insecure S 
Led Astray S 
Plan B S 
Pup S,TR 
S Buttress Direct T 

Plan B 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Ken Trout, Mark Rolofson, and Henry Lester, 1994
Page Views: 4,747
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Mar 30, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (48)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
1st crux.

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Boy, oh boy, what a chance to spray about a great line! I am surprised that this route was not described here previously. First, the Upper Security Risk Crag is a great crag, and second, Ken Trout has put up some of the finest climbs anywhere. With Mark and Henry completing the picture, Plan B was guaranteed to be a classic, and it is all of that.

On a cliff with nothing but great lines, this a really great line. Plan B starts just to the right of a grungy, little off-width on a short pillar. It takes the face straight up crossing a pegmatite dike and climbs largely on good edges and side pulls. The route reminded me of Ten Digit Dialing in Clear Creek, only longer and with no move harder than 5.12b. The cruxes start coming right away, first at bolts 2 and 3 and shortly later at bolts 4 and 5. The whole route is relentless with nearly every non-crux move at 5.11. Good, not too tricky climbing after the second crux at 40 feet takes you to a small overlap just before the first anchor. Pulling a 5.11 overlap and a couple more clips to the upper anchor just prolongs the fun. Plan B gets three stars for the super rock, the complex climbing, the continuity, and the superb job putting it all together.

Protection 

QDs only. 13-14 draws will get you to the top. Actually, this route has two anchors, one at 75 feet and one at 90-95 feet. Double ropes for the higher anchor or a single for the first.


Photos of Plan B Slideshow Add Photo
Adrian on the first crux.
Adrian on the first crux.
3rd bolt.
3rd bolt.
The route climbs just left of, and occasionally on...
The route climbs just left of, and occasionally on...
Crux.
Crux.
Adrian approaching the second crux.
Adrian approaching the second crux.

Comments on Plan B Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 12, 2014
By richard magill
Oct 2, 2002

4 stars on a 3 star scale.
By Anonymous Coward
Jun 9, 2003

The climbing is fun and the hand holds are good, but the feet are rather slippery. I dont reccomend trying this route in warm weather even if its in the shade, but it is a great route. It is worth the hike!
By Joe Collins
Sep 19, 2003
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Best mid-5.12 and under sport climb in the Canyon? Two 5.12 cruxes with a good shaking hold between them. Lots of other mid to hard-5.11 cruxes.
By Chris Archer
Oct 28, 2003
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Sport climbing in Boulder Canyon doesn't get much better than this route and Hot Flyer.
By KCP
From: Eldorado Springs, CO
Jul 26, 2005
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Don't miss this one.
By Kevin Neilson
From: Boulder
Sep 7, 2008

This is a superlative route. I have made it my goal to redpoint this route; if I do, I shall be able to retire from climbing and life. The route is very aesthetic, on a nice granite face with the starkly-delineated pink dike running throughout, yielding many crystalline holds.
The extension brings the pitch closer to a full 30m, but contains much easier climbing and is still fairly dirty. It can be skipped.
The route begins to receive sun shortly before noon.
After working through the 5th-bolt sequency crux many times, I can provide some beta: clip 5. Do not go right to the dike; on this path lies only despair. Put left hand on L-facing arete; bring R foot down to ramp directly underneath you. Lieback to R; get L foot high and left to very small edge. Crank up on arete and L foot to get 2-finger undercling flake with L hand. Move R foot higher up ramp. Get R hand high to diagonal crimper. R foot higher. Match L hand to crimper. In a balancy move, reach R to sloper under 6th bolt. Switch feet, clip 6 with L.
By Mark Wiranowski
Nov 1, 2009
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Fantastic climb - best I've been on in Boulder Canyon. Great cold weather climb - gets the sun around 11 am until sunset. Nice suntrap in the corner. 1st clip is reachy if short - consider a stick clip. Can skip the 3rd bolt.
By eric larson
From: aurora, co
Nov 8, 2010
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

This feels like the Front Range 12b benchmark... absolutely stunning route... stoked to check out the two other highly rated 12s @ this wall.
By Ken Trout
From: Golden, CO
Aug 25, 2013
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

A few days ago, a new climbing friend was questioning me about the name of this route. I thought to check and see if Richard had covered it and found not. After all, who would know the story behind the name of Plan B? Most names have no story at all.

Actually, my friend had been out climbing with Mark Rolofson a lot and was more like: "So Ken, is it Plan B because you couldn't do it and went elsewhere?"

No! It was Mark and Henry's Plan B. Plan A was to sneak into the Flatirons and try "Slave to the Rhythm", but the first ever spring bird closure was in effect and a ranger found them. They were sent packing back down the trail.

Mark knew I had bolted something big. I even told him it would be cool if a bunch of other people would do the route so some chalk would build up on the holds. I was sick of grubby, dirty, first ascents. At the time, there was nothing else in Boulder Canyon with millions of bolts. Mark convinced Henry that the best alternative plan for the day was to head up and do the route before me. I wrote the song, and they played it first.
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Nov 12, 2013
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

This route is essentially 3-4 awesome boulder problems linked with OK rests between. Super fantastic and well-protected route. Bakes in the sun and is actually kind of slippery if not below 50 degrees.
By drewhouser
Oct 12, 2014
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Wow, what a fantastic line that just doesn't let up until bolt 6 and even then isn't a gimme! I definitely agree that this is a temperature dependent route. I gave it a near onsight at 50 degrees in the shade, and 30 minutes later at 60 degrees and in the sun it felt much more difficult. I'll have to go back to get this one.