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Plan B Area

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cube 
Cube direct 
Ender 
Got Shorty 
Groth Spurt 
High Anxiety 
Hustons Arete 
Irrationality 
Napolean Complex 
Napolean Face Left 
Napolean Face Right 
Press It Out 
Press it out Direct 
Resolution 
Schizophrenia (Right of Split Personality)  
Schlick It Up 
Seperation Anxiety 
Seperation face 
Seperatist, The 
Smack crack Left 
Smack Crack left Dyno 
Smack Crack Right 
Smack Crack WAY Right 
Split Personality 
Things just got harder 
Veasy AKA "Why Not?" 
Venom 
Warm up Center 
Warm up Left 
Warm up Right 

Plan B Area  


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Page Views: 17,234
Administrators: Chris treggE, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Tradoholic on Apr 15, 2009
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Description 

Plan B is the southern half of the Group B bouldering area. I left the numbers on the older routes from JJ Schlick's original problem list.

Left to right sorting starts where the trail on the saddle between plan B and backbone ridge meets the rock.

See topo map below:

Updated (2009) Group B topo with Plan B Area and the Backbone Ridge split into east side and west side.  Alternate approaches are the dotted lines.
Updated (2009) Group B topo with Plan B Area and the Backbone Ridge split into east side and west side. Alternate approaches are the dotted lines.

Getting There 

If nobody is camped at Group B site, park there and take the trail uphill. When you get to the saddle between the 2 ridges, go left (south-ish). Plan B is this area. You will come to the Seperation Boulder first. If someone is camped at Group B Site, please follow the alternate directions: either park at the bathroom and walk straight uphill (you will come to the Cave) or left left towards Group Site A and park along the right side of the road and walk straight uphill towards the ridge (you will come up near Press It Out).

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.2 miles from here

30 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',16],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',8],['V2-3',13],['V4-5',8],['V6-7',1],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Plan B Area:
Smack Crack Right   V0 4     Boulder   
Seperation Anxiety   V0+ 4+     Boulder   
Smack crack Left   V0+ 4+     Boulder   
High Anxiety   V0+ 4+     Boulder   
Warm up Left   V1- 5-     Boulder   
Seperation face   V1 5     Boulder   
Smack Crack left Dyno   V2 5+     Boulder, 15'   
Ender   V2 5+     Boulder   
Things just got harder   V2-3 5+     Boulder   
Napolean Complex   V3 6A     Boulder   
Press It Out   V3-4 6A+     Boulder, 10'   
Resolution   V4- 6B     Boulder   
The Seperatist   V4 6B     Boulder   
Venom   V5 6C     Boulder   
Press it out Direct   V5 6C     Boulder, 10'   
Hustons Arete   V5 6C     Boulder   
Split Personality   V5 6C     Boulder   
Irrationality   V6 7A     Boulder   
Browse More Classics in Plan B Area

Featured Route For Plan B Area
me on the last two holds.

Venom V5 6C  WI : Governor Dodge State Park : ... : Plan B Area
Sit start on the large Horizontal flake and move threw a few under cling laybacks to a series of progressively smaller holds. last two are very bad but its still one of the funnest lines. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in WI

Photos of Plan B Area Slideshow Add Photo
The Sweaty Cave.  From the cinderblock bathroom on the way to Group B, hike straight uphill into the woods towards the rock.  Can't miss it.  Discovered or rediscovered last summer by John Freaney (of course), 2 lines have been done and there is potential for more but will be very limited by the choss factor.  The left line (A) is good and pretty solid, but tall.  The right side of the cave is fairly chossy, but (B) is kind of fun but short.  See "Groth Spurt" and "Schlick it Up" descriptions.
BETA PHOTO: The Sweaty Cave. From the cinderblock bathroom on...
Traversing along the bottom with the the smack crack problems overhead.  Quite a lovely place to boulder on a nice extra warm day in Nov.  Can't wait until warm weather to get back out there
Traversing along the bottom with the the smack cra...
Couple lines on the Napolean Boulder.  Napolean Complex overhanging arete on the very left.  The right (uphill) face holds 2 decent seperate lines, undoubtedly done before (Schlick?).  Napolean Face Left and N. F. Right.  Both around V1, both pretty fun warmups for the area.
Couple lines on the Napolean Boulder. Napolean Co...
Back of the cave.  With some cleaning a roof project could come out, not sure how good the rock is though.  You can see the small triangular crimp on the left side of the pic that starts Groth Spurt.
Back of the cave. With some cleaning a roof proje...
The Sweaty Cave.
The Sweaty Cave.
So where's that V5?  Does it start here or around the corner to the left?  Fun working variations of the start anyway.
So where's that V5? Does it start here or around ...

Comments on Plan B Area Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tradoholic
Dec 11, 2009
Eggbert, can we clear up the numbering of routes here and Backbone? It no longer makes sense, me thinks.
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Dec 11, 2009
Yeah you're right Nick. I left those numbers on before since they were of historical interest, and on JJ's topo he used the numbering system, but I guess there are so many more problems now that it's outdated. I will start deleting the numbers (unless someone objects, let me know). I do think it's important to remember that Schlick put a lot of work into both this site, the topo, and putting up loads of problems (including probably a bunch he never got around to posting up here).
By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Dec 11, 2009
we have a regular neat freak here. lowercase, lowercase, lowercase :-)

But yeah they haven't made sense for a long while. But it brings you back to the days when there were 15 boulder problems listed... the good ole days.
By Tony Brengosz
Dec 11, 2009
If you want to preserve some historical value, maybe you should add a small note in the description of the problem that says "#3 on JJ's topo" or whatever.
By Tradoholic
Jun 14, 2011
I ordered this best I could based on the approach from Camp B. Please note if you think I mixed some up.
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Jun 14, 2011
Fixed a couple. Thanks Nick.
By Tradoholic
Jun 14, 2011
Yea, fix the last few for me (L to R if facing the wall), I haven't done much of those. I went to Split Personality block first then to High Anxiety then right to Smack Crack and then right over to Press It Out, then back around the corner. But, you're right, from the Cave on it should be the other way around.