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King Otto's Castle
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Don Genaro Crack T 
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Leaving Las Vegas T 
Panama Red TR 
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Plain But Good Hearted T 
Shaken Not Stirred T 
She Is Helga, I Am Sven T 
Sweat Band T 
Sweat Pants T 
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Uncle Len's Pot Farm S 

Plain But Good Hearted 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Todd McMasters, Bruce Linton, and Bob Vinnacombe, March 1977
Page Views: 952
Submitted By: C Miller on Jun 25, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Al Swanson soloing "Plain But Good Hearted&qu...

Description 

Easy climbing at the bottom leads to a wider crack in the middle then positive but somewhat runout face climbing on large rounded holds. Best to be solid at the grade for maximum enjoyment on this route. Two stars out of five.

Location 

Between Leaving Las Vegas and Shaken Not Stirred.

Protection 

Gear to 4", bolted anchor/rap


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Plain But Good Hearted (5.6), Joshua Tree NP
BETA PHOTO: Plain But Good Hearted (5.6), Joshua Tree NP

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By Kelly
Jun 28, 2003

If you like to crack climb, you won't enjoy the run out face at the top.
By Carol
Dec 15, 2003
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

agreed with Kelly. as a conservative and petite climber, I felt getting to the face up top was a bit PG.

also found a couple larger pieces helpful (camalots #3.5 and #4).
By Anonymous Coward
Aug 18, 2004

My girlfriend tried this as one of her first leads. Bad idea. The crux is funky and not very well protected. If you are a new leader and not confident running it out on 5.6, this route is not for you.
By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
Nov 28, 2004

The "Runout" face moves are all there big time. Super solid. But for beginners..........might be better to avoid this until they get their head on right..........otherwise for the rest of us........this thing is fun. The move from the crack to the face is pretty damned cool for a climb of this rating......
By Ryan Avery
Jan 26, 2005
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Wierd Pro to say the least. For extra fun, lead it with only hexes and couple smallish cams. I think there were a total of two good pieces of pro on this one. Not your usual runout face for Josh as it was not so frictiony and more "5.6 edging".

Worth doing if you are in the area and solid at the grade.
By David C. Burke
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 1, 2007
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Saving a #1 Camalot for the face is helpful. There is a pocket on the face about halfway through the run out that fits a #1 Camalot pretty well. I agree that this would not be a great first lead for someone trying to build confidence with their traditional climbing.
By Lluis Penalver-Aguila
From: Cambridge, Massachusetts
Feb 1, 2009

The crack is solid but ends in a run out face to the anchors. The protection is light and sketchy from the ground to the crack. Solid pro in the crack.

Bring larger #2-3 cams.
By C Miller
Administrator
Feb 13, 2012

It's possible to get a decent offset cam (3.5") in a flared pod about halfway from the end of the crack to the anchors.