Plain But Good Hearted
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Al Swanson soloing "Plain But Good Hearted".
Although only probably worth one star, this is long moderate route with fairly decent protection and some nice climbing. On the right margin of the south face of King Otto, there's a kind of "fold" in the rock. The crack formed by this fold is the route. Begin on the right side of the south face, climb up a short face section to get to the crack, then follow the crack. Near the top, you'll have to set pro (#2/#3 Camalot) and launch out across the face above (bit to the left).
Good selection of cams from small to large (#3) Camalot. Set of nuts. Single rope rap from anchors at the top.
BETA PHOTO: Plain But Good Hearted (5.6), Joshua Tree NP
|Comments on Plain But Good Hearted
Jun 28, 2003
If you like to crack climb, you won't enjoy the run out face at the top.
Dec 15, 2003
agreed with Kelly. as a conservative and petite climber, I felt getting to the face up top was a bit PG.
also found a couple larger pieces helpful (camalots #3.5 and #4).
|By Anonymous Coward|
Aug 18, 2004
My girlfriend tried this as one of her first leads. Bad idea. The crux is funky and not very well protected. If you are a new leader and not confident running it out on 5.6, this route is not for you.
From: Westminster, CO
Nov 28, 2004
The "Runout" face moves are all there big time. Super solid. But for beginners..........might be better to avoid this until they get their head on right..........otherwise for the rest of us........this thing is fun. The move from the crack to the face is pretty damned cool for a climb of this rating......
|By Ryan Avery|
Jan 26, 2005
Wierd Pro to say the least. For extra fun, lead it with only hexes and couple smallish cams. I think there were a total of two good pieces of pro on this one. Not your usual runout face for Josh as it was not so frictiony and more "5.6 edging".
Worth doing if you are in the area and solid at the grade.
|By David C. Burke|
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 1, 2007
Saving a #1 Camalot for the face is helpful. There is a pocket on the face about halfway through the run out that fits a #1 Camalot pretty well. I agree that this would not be a great first lead for someone trying to build confidence with their traditional climbing.
|By Lluis Penalver-Aguila|
Feb 1, 2009
The crack is solid but ends in a run out face to the anchors. The protection is light and sketchy from the ground to the crack. Solid pro in the crack.
Bring larger #2-3 cams.
|By C Miller|
Feb 13, 2012
rating: 5.6 R
Easy moves down low to a wider crack in the middle then positive but runout face climbing on large rounded holds. It's possible to get a decent offset cam (3.5") in a flared pod about halfway from the end of the crack to the anchors.