Place Your Bet
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The route can wander. Your reach may determine whether you choose the left or right of the arete (or a combination of both). The top is where you'll make to make the toughest decision.
This route is the arete on the right of the chimney/dihedral.
top-rope from bolts
BETA PHOTO: Place Your Bet follows the rope line above the cli...
|Comments on Place Your Bet
From: Lyons, CO
Oct 18, 2008
Maybe I went the wrong way, but TRing this one felt harder than leading Grandpa's Belay.
From: Winston-Salem, NC
Feb 20, 2011
Kelley's book did list this as 5.6 and that is wrong. The anchors hang the left part of the face, and that line is the common climb, up a shallow crack in a shallow roof, trending left toward a good ledge on the arete to skip the upper overhang. Pulling that using the left-hand flake is quite strenuous and beyond a 5.7 climber. Normally, climbers cross the arete to finish on the left side to the anchor ledge.
From: Charlotte, NC
Sep 26, 2011
I thought this line was really fun and I would still grade it 5.6.
I felt like if one followed the correct line, this route didn't feel any harder than Howdy Dude (www.mountainproject.com/v/howdy-dude/106106865) or the last pitch of the Daddy (www.mountainproject.com/v/the-daddy/105883690), which both get a 5.6 rating in the guidebooks.
I think all of those routes are more technical and require skills at reading the line, body position, correct placement of hands on holds, and correct usage of those holds. All of those skills I would expect a non-beginner 5.6 climber to have.
|By Walt Barker|
Apr 8, 2012
Great TR. Anchor placement is good for doing some hard variations. Found a few moves in the 5.10 range.
From: carrboro, nc
Jun 3, 2013
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- VS 4c
TRAD: This is a fun lead and harder than it may seem if you climb the face. Mostly small pieces and tricams work well. If you stay away from the left edge and pull / protect in the left facing flake, it's a much harder move than the 5.6 rating, more like 5.8.