BETA PHOTO: Left side of Placche Zebrate from the parking lot
Description
Placche Zebrate, (Zebra-striped Slabs) is located on the west side of the valle del Sarca (the Sarca Valley), between Dro and Pietramurata.
Placche Zebrate is located directly below Monte Brento, the second tallest peak rising above the Sarca Valley. Monte Brento is well known and popular for base jumping from a launching point known as Becco d’Aquila (the eagle’s beak). Common to see squirrel suits whistle by over head which can make for exciting, tense viewing in anticipation of a successful deployment.
The area contains over 30 routes at a variety of grades with a number of popular multi pitch options ranging from 5.8 to 5.11. From 3 to a whopping 16 pitches, there's both shorter routes that climb quite quickly to much longer venues.
The limestone here has fun features with friction slab, holes, shallow grooves, rails and edges all making for fun, low-angle movement. Routes tend to be sparsely bolted and a small rack of cams and nuts will help supplement any meager fixed protection.
The standard descent is a trail heading off the top of the slab to the climber’s left, and down through scree near the forested slopes to the south. Routes may not be equipped for rappelling.
From the sign at the parking lot, comes these "Safety Rules":
• Attention! Stones fall in area under the wall. We warn to enter this area to the climbers only. The helmet must be worn!
• Attention! This is not a sport climbing area, but a mountaineering area with long routes. Belay not equipped with chain. Take suitable equipment and clothes with.
• We warn to use a single 11m rope (or better, a double 9mm rope) minimum 50m long. To bring slings to connect the belay bolts. To use the helmet.
• Attention! It is strictly forbidden to leave the marked path while coming back! A free down hill can cause stones fall on climbers engaged in the wall.
• If should you find any equipment damaged or missing, please telephone this in.
• Mountain Rescue – Phone No. 520333.
Getting There
From Arco, drive north, past the village of Dro and before reaching Pietramurata (and well before Sarche). Past Dro, the obvious east-facing long slab area will come into view in a couple of kilometers.
Just past the Bar Placche Zebrate on the right (east), pull into the signed parking lot on the left (information kiosk).
Obvious trails lead directly to the slab in about 15 minutes time. If there are parties climbing, it would be prudent to pay attention for rock fall even on the approach trail and especially if traversing the base of the slab.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Placche Zebrate:
Via Trento 5.8 Trad, 5 pitches, 600 feet, Grade II
Smooth slab interspersed with grassy pockets, Via Trento is a much better climbing route than would appear from a distance. The route milks solid slab features for 5 or 6 pitches.Start: the original route climbed just left of the trough but it appears that this pitch has fallen into obscurity. Some really poor looking old bolts can be found here. Instead, climb up and into the trough, joining the first pitch of “46° Parallelo” and ending the pitch at the left side of the channel.Cross over a...[more]Browse More Classics in International
I think it's called "parete" zebrate. Which means zebra face (I think). Look at the title in the photo of the sign at the trail-head. The routs here are awesome, moderate, and sporty. When ever you can't see the next bolt, they've painted arrows on the rock to show you where to go. Also they have chizled the rout names at the base to avoid confusion. Different country, different ethic than the states. If this place was in the US, there would be a thread 50 pages long about the disrespect for the rock. O-well, regardless my wife and I really enjoyed the milage at this place.
By Brian in SLC From: Salt Lake City, UT Feb 21, 2011
I think its commonly referred to as a "slab" area, hence "Placche". In three guidebooks, two refer to the area soley as Placche and in the guidebook Pareti del Sarca, two of the photo's of the slab areas are referred to as Placche Zebrate, while the whole crag section in the guidebook is Parete Zebrate. I guess my intent was to focus on the popular slab area, and, not the entire crag which, as you look to the right, isn't as slabby.
If you've done another route, put 'er in the database! And, more photo's!
Neat area. Cheers!
Edit to add: I think Parete and Placche are "wall" and "slab", so, either descriptor would probably work. Pareti being plural for walls or cliffs?
No worries, I was only guessing anyway. We didn't have a current guidebook (our was borrowed from some Austrians, which was from the 1990's and not in english). I'll post more later.
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